We get a lot of questions about healthcare and concerns about rabbit that become ill, injured, etc. In our experience and many other breeders, most veterinarians are not rabbit savvy, and the best knowledge comes from other breeders with many years experience and a few rescues who have to work diligently to help sick, injures or abused rabbits, the following is just some of the information we have found useful and have learned from them along the way....

Stubby is a "Charlie, and although he is not symptomatic, anyone who is interested in him should know that Charlie spotted rabbits are prone to suffer from megacolon syndrome. These rabbits must receive a variety of food rich in fiber: good quality pellets containing minerals and vitamins, fresh hay and, if tolerated, a variety of fresh vegetables and aromatic herbs.  There is a full account of this disease under "Megacolon" if you want to know more. 




​Normal rabbit urine can span anywhere from a yellow color to a golden orange. Red, brown, or white pee are worth looking into and talking to your vet about, but these also could be perfectly normal for your rabbit. The real danger comes if you see any kind of small sand-like particles or blood in the pee, since these can be an indication of larger health problems.

You are probably reading this because you’re worried that something is wrong with your rabbit’s urine. So let’s go through all of the characteristics of normal pee and how to know when it’s time to go see the rabbit doctor. 

Color of rabbit urine-Rabbit pee can be many different colors and still be healthy pee. Usually rabbits will pee anywhere from 2-8 times a day and it will be a golden yellow or amber orange color.

The color will get a little darker and more concentrated if your rabbit is dehydrated. And it will frequently change color based on a rabbit’s diet. For example, if your rabbit has a lot of carrots one day, their pee could come out being a brighter orange than usual.
Normal rabbit pee will usually be a little bit murky, not completely clear. Rabbit’s pass excess calcium along with their urine. But if the pee looks excessively cloudy or murky, that is a sign of a more serious bladder condition.

Golden, amber, red, and clear urine are all possible colors of your rabbits urine. Brown or dark urine typically means your rabbit is a little dehydrated. White ‘urine’ is just a calcium deposit and it’s nothing to worry about. Bladder sludge is when you see sediment or sand-like particles in your rabbit’s pee, and this is cause for concern. Blood in urine is extremely rare, but you will know it’s present if it’s spotted rather than uniformly red. Rabbit Urine Color Chart:

• Yellow-This is normal pee.
• ​Orange-This is normal pee, but your rabbit might be slightly dehydrated. Try encouraging them to drink more water.
• Red-Usually there is no need to worry. This is probably caused from food in your rabbit’s diet. The color will usually return back to normal within a week.
• Brown-Possibly dehydrated, encourage your rabbit to drink more water.
• Transparent-This is normal pee. If your rabbit’s pee isn’t usually transparent, pay attention to see if their drinking habits have changed. Excessive drinking may be a sign of kidney problems in rabbits.
• Red spots-This could be a sign of blood in your rabbits urine. But it could also be from food in your rabbits diet. Check with your vet to see if there are any health problems that need to be addressed.
• White-Occasional white discharge is normal for rabbits. It is how your rabbit releases excess calcium from their diets. If this is a frequent occurrence, check with your vet to make sure there are no underlying conditions to be concerned about.
• Cloudy-If your rabbit has cloudy or chalky pee, this is a sign of bladder stones or a urinary tract infection. It’s best to get your rabbit to the vet as soon as you can.

Red pee — when is it bad? For the most part, if your rabbit has red pee then there is nothing to worry about. While it’s not necessarily a ‘normal’ rabbit urine color, it’s rarely a sign of any health concerns.

If the rabbit pee is a uniform, consistent red color (bright or dark red), it is almost certain that the coloring is not from blood. It’s rare for rabbit urine to have blood in it, but if it does the blood will more likely appear in splotches, rather than uniformly throughout the urine.
What are the main causes of red rabbit urine?

• Antibiotics: sometimes rabbit pee changes color when they are taking an antibiotic treatment.
• Cold weather: When the temperature first starts to drop in the fall, some rabbits will inexplicably have red pee for a few days.
• Diet: If a rabbits diet is high in beta carotene (carrots, spinach, etc.) or red berries (strawberries, raspberries, etc.), their pee may become a red color.

Hydrogen peroxide test, If you are still worried that there might be blood in your rabbits pee, or the color has not returned to a golden or amber color after a few weeks, you can perform a hydrogen peroxide test to determine if there is any blood in your rabbit’s urine.

Get a sample of your rabbits pee and pour a little bit of hydrogen peroxide on it. Hydrogen peroxide shouldn’t react to plain urine, but if there is blood present, the mixture will start to foam up.

Orange or brown urine-Orange or brown urine are usually nothing serious to worry about. This could be a completely normal pee color for your rabbit, but it could also mean that your rabbit is a little bit dehydrated.

In general a darker, more concentrated color of pee is a sign that your rabbit isn’t drinking as much. But if your rabbit isn’t showing any signs of distress, then this isn’t an emergency. It is probably advantageous to encourage your rabbit to drink more water though
Here are some ideas to help your rabbit stay hydrated:

• Switch to using a water bowl instead of a water bottle. It’s easier for a rabbit to drink out of a bowl, so they will usually drink more if that’s how you give them their water.
• Give your rabbit fresh leafy greens. Leafy greens contain a lot of water in their composition, so just eating fresh greens will help with hydration. To get your rabbit to drink even more water, leave some extra water droplets on the greens after you wash them.
• Refill your rabbit’s bowl with cool water a few times a day. Renewing your rabbit’s bowl with fresh cool water can renew your rabbit’s interest in it. So if you’re afraid your rabbit is dehydrated, try refreshing the water a couple times a day.
• Use a running water fountain. You can get a pet water fountain that will cause the water to constantly flow. This can be more interesting for rabbits and helps the water taste fresh.
• Add a couple drops of flavoring to the water. You can try adding a little bit of unsweetened apple or carrot juice to their water bowl. This can make the flavor a little sweeter so your rabbit will like it more.

White or milky urine, Sometimes rabbits will excrete a white, milky substance with their urine. This is just excess calcium that your rabbit doesn’t need. It will dry into a chalky white substance.

Rabbits are very efficient in the way they absorb calcium from their food. In fact, they usually have a much higher blood calcium level than most other animals we have as pets. They absorb as much calcium as they can from their diets and then excrete the excess through their kidneys and out with the pee.

So it’s perfectly normal to occasionally find a splotch of white in your rabbit’s litter box. If you do find this happening very frequently though, it might be time to take a look at your rabbit’s diet and reduce some of the calcium high food. 

If you are feeding your adult rabbit alfalfa hay or pellets, you’ll want to transition over to timothy-based alternatives. Alfalfa is very high in calcium, which makes it great for young, growing rabbits. But it’s a little too nutrient dense for healthy adult rabbits.
​
If your rabbit is excreting calcium frequently, you might also want to consider talking to your vet to see if they want to perform any check-ups to make sure your rabbit isn’t developing any health problems.

Rabbit poop can tell you a lot about how healthy your rabbit is. Their health depends on the constant motion of their digestive system, so often illnesses can be detected early by changes in a rabbit’s pooping habits. You should make a habit of checking your rabbit’s poop for changes every day to keep track of your rabbit’s health.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the common and not-so-common types of rabbit poop you might encounter. We’ll go through a few potential illnesses you can detect by monitoring your rabbit’s poop and how to know when it’s time to go see your rabbit-savvy veterinarian.

The different types of poop you may see. To monitor your rabbits health through their poop, you’ll have to know what’s normal, and what to look out for. But also keep in mind that what you’re looking for in your rabbit’s poop is consistency. If you’re rabbit’s poops are the size of a sweet pea while other rabbits poops are the size of chickpea, that’s okay! As long as your rabbit’s poops are approximately the same size and color all the time, you don’t need to worry.

Rabbit fecal pellets should be hard balls that are uniform in size and color. Normal rabbit poop, Also known as fecal pellets, these normal rabbit poops should look very much like cocoa puffs. The exact size and color will vary a little bit, depending on the rabbit.

There is little correlation between the size of the rabbit and the size of their poop. Sometimes very small rabbits will produce fecal pellets that are bigger than the droppings of a 10 lb. rabbit. So it’s important to become familiar with your own rabbit’s poop, so you can be very clear about what is normal for your rabbit.
The characteristics of healthy rabbit poop include:

• Size: Healthy rabbit poop can range from about the size of a green pea to around the size of a chickpea (about 7mm – 12mm) in diameter. The poops should all be uniform in size. If there is any drastic difference in the size of the poops, that is cause for concern and an appointment should be made with your rabbit’s vet.
• Shape: Rabbit poops should be consistent, little round balls. It’s possible that you’ll see some distortion in shape, especially during shedding season when there is extra fur being packed into the pellets. But if this is a frequent occurrence, it could be an indication of larger digestive issues. 
• Color: The color of normal rabbit poops can range anywhere from a dark brown color to a more tan, wheat-colored poop. The key here, again, is consistency. As long as you’re rabbit’s poops are all a uniform color, you shouldn’t worry that the color seems a little light. If your rabbit has very dark poops, it might be an indication that they have a diet that’s too high in protein. But sometimes it just comes down to the rabbit’s specific digestion. I knew two rabbits who lived together and were on the exact same diet, but had drastically different colored poop.
• Texture: Rabbit poop should be hard to the touch, and not at all mushy or squishy. If you put pressure again them in your fingers (or accidentally step on one) you might break one open. But the inside should look like dusty, digested hay (kind of like sawdust). It should not be squishy or have any of those typical poop-qualities you would expect of other animals.
• Smell: Rabbit poop does not have a strong scent to the human nose. If there is a strong scent coming from your rabbit’s litter box, it is almost definitely the smell of their urine, and not their poop.

Cecotropes are little clusters of nutrient-packed soft pellets that rabbits re-ingest.

Cecotropes are the other type of normal rabbit dropping. These are little clusters of nutrient-packed soft pellets. They are produced in the rabbits cecum, where natural bacteria and fungi live and transform the indigestible parts of a rabbit’s diet into this essential dietary item. Yes, that means rabbits need to eat their Cecotropes to get all the nutrients they need from their food.

Usually rabbits will eat their Cecotropes right out of their anus, so you won’t see very many lying around. But occasionally you might find some that your rabbit missed. If you start to see a lot of cecotropes, it may be time to look at your rabbit’s diet. Rabbits will overproduce cecotropes when they have too much sugar in their diet.

Cecotropes are also more often produced in the evenings, rather than all day long like normal rabbit poops. It used to be thought that rabbits would only produce cecotropes at night, but it turns out the timing of cecotropes production is largely dependent on the rabbit. Some produce most of their cecotropes at night, while others do in the morning.

• Size: By themselves, cecotropes are very small, only a few millimeters in diameter, but you will often see them in groups or clusters. The clusters will often be one to two inches in length, but it’s not unusual to find only a few cecotropes together.
• Shape: Usually you will see cecotropes clustered together in a berry-like structure. But they can also be seen as single cecotropes, or even just two or three of the droppings to a cluster.
• Color: Cecotropes are a dark brown color. They will also have a little bit of a shine to them, since there is a thin mucus layer covering the cecotropes. These are much stickier than normal rabbit poop, so they may also have attracted a layer of rabbit fur or hay from the surroundings.
• Texture: Cecotropes have a squishy and sticky texture. They can easily be mushed together and lose their shape. Most of the time, if you see something that looks like a smear of mushy poop, it really just a cecotrope that got stepped on.
• Smell: If the thin membrane that surrounds the cecotropes is broken, they will smell. They will smell a lot. So if you all of a sudden smell a distinctly poop smell, look for a nearby squished cecotrope and offer it to your rabbit to eat.

If your rabbit is ingesting a lot of fur, they may have poop linked together by strands. Strung together, Sometimes rabbit poops will be strung together by fur to look like a string of pearls. This is a relatively common occurrence and you’re bound to notice it in your own rabbits poop on occasion. This is especially common with long haired breeds of rabbit, or during a big molting season, since rabbits will ingest more hair when they are shedding.

The poops that are strung together in these chains should still be uniform in size and color. They might be a little deformed in the places where the strand of hair pokes out to connect the next poop in the line, but otherwise they should still be well formed balls with a hard texture. If the spacing between the poops is also uniform, this is a good indication that your rabbit’s digestion is working just fine. So for the most part, this nothing to worry about.

If you are seeing a large amount of these strung together poops, though, you may want to consider taking more time to groom your rabbit. A large number of these pearls means that your rabbit is digesting a lot of hair. Since they cannot vomit, their digestive tract has to do a lot of work pushing the hair through the system. To avoid a potential hairball blockage, try brushing your rabbit once a day to keep them from ingesting so much fur. 

If a rabbit’s gut slows down a little they may pass double or even triple fecal pellets fused together.

Double poops, A rabbit’s digestive tract will usually work very rhythmically and produce new poops at regular intervals. This is how rabbit poops are able to have such a uniform size and shape. Sometimes, however, the rabbits gut will slow down just a little and two, or even three, poops will collide into each other.
This will usually look like two otherwise normal poops have merged with each other. But sometimes, they’ll have merged so much, that the poop takes on an elongated oval shape. The color and texture should still be normal.

If you only see a few of these types of poops in a day, while the rest are perfectly normal, then you have no need to worry. It’s common for rabbits to get stressed by a sudden sound, causing their gut to temporarily slow down.

If you see a lot of these double poops, however, this is a sign that your rabbit’s gut is slowing down for longer periods of time. You’ll want to make an appointment with your vet so you can find the underlying cause of the slow down and stimulate their gut to move at a normal pace again.
Small rabbit poop is a sign that your rabbit is stressed or in pain.

Small poop, Very small poop is usually not a good sign in a rabbit. It means that something is stressing your rabbit out. It could be something in their environment, like a dog barking outside, or it could be a much more serious illness that’s causing them pain.

If your rabbit’s poop is all of a sudden small for a couple hours, but then bounces back to a normal size, your rabbit probably just got stressed out by something in their environment and they are doing better already. To be sure, check to make sure your rabbits appetite and behavior are also normal, since these can be other indicators of illness. But as long as your rabbit continues to produce normal poops, they are probably okay.

If the rabbit’s poops continue to be small and don’t return to normal within a couple hours, this is an indication that your rabbit is sick or in pain. You should get to a rabbit veterinarian as soon as you can, and continue to monitor your rabbits appetite and behavior for any possible illnesses.

A rabbit will have deformed poop if they are not eating enough or if they are recovering from surgery.

Deformed poop, Small deformed rabbit poop is usually a sign that you need to visit your rabbit’s vet. This happens when your rabbit is dehydrated, isn’t eating enough, or if there is a blockage in their gut and food is having trouble making its way through the digestive tract.

There can be any number of reasons that your rabbit is having trouble eating. Whether it be from overgrown teeth, excessive stress, or pain from an illness, deformed poop should be treated as a serious medical condition.

The only time that you should be happy to see these small misshapen rabbit poops is when they are recovering from surgery or a bout of GI stasis. In these cases the rabbit hasn’t been able to eat much lately, and seeing any poops at all is a sign that your rabbit is on the road to recovery.

Cecal dysbiosis is unformed cecotropes and is usually caused by an unhealthy diet. True diarrhea is uncommon, but should be treated as an emergency situation.

Mushy cecotropes or diarrhea. There are two types of mushy rabbit stool. Cecal dysbiosis, which is unformed cecotropes, and true diarrhea, which is actual runny poops. The two types of mushy poop might be a little difficult to tell apart, but usually if it is the unformed cecotropes it will have a toothpaste-like texture, and they may still have some form to them.

Cecal dysbiosis is much more common and less dangerous in the short term. This happens when the gut bacteria get out of balance. These mushy or unformed cecotropes are a symptom of another underlying disease or stressor that needs to be addressed. It will smell pretty bad, and may stick to the rabbit’s butt to form a ball of poop over time.

The most common causes of cecal dysbiosis include:

• A high sugar diet
• A low fiber diet
• Dental problems
• Urinary tract disorders
• Upper respiratory infections
• Obesity

True diarrhea is not common at all, but if your rabbit ever experiences it, they need to see the doctor right away. In adult rabbits, diarrhea is almost always caused by some sort of parasite or poison. True diarrhea is more common in baby rabbits who have been weaned too early. They don’t yet have the antibodies to protect themselves, and so their bodies can’t fight against any dangerous bacteria they come into contact with.

You may find mucus in your rabbit’s poop when they are recovering from stasis.

Mucus covered poop. Though uncommon, it is possible you will find mucus in your rabbit’s poop. This most commonly occurs when a rabbit is going into or out-of GI stasis, since the gut bacteria is out of balance. It could also be an indication of parasites in your rabbits intestinal tract. Tapeworms or pinworms can sometimes even be seen on the excreted feces. You’ll want to bring a sample of this mucus-covered poop with you when you go to the vet so they can perform tests and find the cause.

Causes of abnormal poops. There are many possible causes of abnormal poop in rabbits. Some are less dangerous than others, but it’s all worth going to your rabbit-savvy veterinarian with a sample to get it tested. Your rabbit may have developed a serious illness that needs to be addressed.
The most common causes of abnormal poops include:

• Unhealthy diet. A diet too high in sugar content (including sugary fruits and vegetables, and colorful pellet mixes) can cause a number of gastrointestinal difficulties. Rabbits may also suffer from a gastrointestinal illness if they don’t get enough fiber in their diets. For this reason, rabbits should always have unlimited access to grass-based hay.
• Obesity. This is a dangerous condition for rabbits. The excess weight often causes a reluctance to move around and exercise. This often causes a slow-down of the gut, resulting in small or deformed poops. It also often causes mushy cecotropes that have a tendency to stick to the rabbit’s bottom.
• Diseases. Because of rabbits’ sensitive digestive system, even illness that don’t seem to be related to digestion can affect the intestinal tract. Pain and even  stress can cause a rabbit to have small or abnormal poops.
• Parasites. Parasites, such as tapeworms or pinworms, are likely to cause abnormal and runny poops. If your rabbit is not pooping at all. If your rabbit is not pooping at all, or has not pooped for the last 12 hours, this is an emergency situation. Your rabbit may have developed GI stasis (gastrointestinal stasis), and if you do not get their digestion moving again quickly, this could be a fatal condition​ GI stasis is the condition that occurs when a rabbits gut slows down or comes to a complete halt. As the intestinal tract slows down, hair and food start to get stuck along the gastrointestinal tract, creating bigger blockages. And the gut bacteria will start to increase to dangerous numbers, creating painful gas in the rabbit’s gut. Basically this means that the rabbit’s digestion isn’t working. The whole system has stopped. If the symptoms are caught early enough, it is very possible that your rabbit will recover. But if the rabbit does not receive help on time, this condition can be deadly.

This is probably the most important condition to be aware of, since it is often a symptom of many other illnesses in rabbits.
A rabbit in a hunched position will use their front paws to keep from pressing their belly against the ground.
Symptoms. GI stasis is pretty common, so it’s important to learn the symptoms:

If your rabbit is not pooping at all. If your rabbit is not pooping at all, or has not pooped for the last 12 hours, this is an emergency situation. Your rabbit may have developed GI stasis (gastrointestinal stasis), and if you do not get their digestion moving again quickly, this could be a fatal condition​ GI stasis is the condition that occurs when a rabbits gut slows down or comes to a complete halt. As the intestinal tract slows down, hair and food start to get stuck along the gastrointestinal tract, creating bigger blockages. And the gut bacteria will start to increase to dangerous numbers, creating painful gas in the rabbit’s gut. Basically this means that the rabbit’s digestion isn’t working. The whole system has stopped. If the symptoms are caught early enough, it is very possible that your rabbit will recover. But if the rabbit does not receive help on time, this condition can be deadly.

• Not eating. If the rabbit hasn’t eaten in over 10 hours or refuses their favorite treat, this is cause for concern.
• No poops or small malformed poops. In early stages of stasis, the rabbit’s poops will usually be small and malformed until eventually they are not pooping at all.
• Diarrhea or mushy poops. Diarrhea in rabbits is never normal. If you ever notice this, that is a sign that something is wrong with their digestion.
• Loud stomach gurgles, or no sound coming from the stomach at all. If you ever put your ear near your rabbit’s stomach, you’ll notice that there is almost always a quiet gurgling going on. If this gets really loud or disappears completely, it’s a sign of GI stasis.
• Hunched posture. This is often the position that rabbits take when they are in pain, especially if that pain is coming from their gut. The position looks almost like a rabbit loaf. But instead the rabbit will be slightly up on their front paws, keeping their belly from pressing against the ground.
• Lack of energy. If your rabbit is normally full of energy, but now they are just sitting and hesitant to move, this could mean your rabbit is experiencing stasis. 

Causes GI stasis is often a symptom of some other underlying health problem. So after your rabbit recovers from their GI stasis episode, it’s important to check and see if there are any other issues that caused the gut problems. Causes of GI stasis include:

• A high sugar diet. If a rabbit has too many treats, or even too many pellets it can cause an imbalance in the gut bacteria.
• Lack of exercise. Exercise helps to keep a rabbit’s digestion moving. So if your rabbit just sits in their enclosure all day, their gut can slow down.
• Pain from other injuries or illnesses. GI stasis is often a symptom of more serious conditions. If your rabbit is in pain, their gut will likely slow down.
• Stress or fear. An anxious rabbit is also at risk of GI stasis.
• Dehydration. If your rabbit doesn’t get enough fluids, the stomach will have trouble pushing food through the digestive tract.
• Intestinal blockage. Sometimes food or another object that a rabbit ate can create a blockage in the digestive system.

Prevention GI stasis is a really scary condition to deal with and it can sneak up very quickly. So we want to do what we can to prevent this condition:

• Feed your rabbit unlimited hay. Hay is high in fiber and is essential to a rabbit’s healthy digestive system. Read more about a healthy diet for a rabbit.
• Encourage your rabbit to stay hydrated. A water bowl is often easier for a rabbit to drink from than a bottle. You could also give leafy greens to your rabbit that still have the water from being rinsed.
• Allow your rabbit to have lots of exercise. Make sure their enclosure is large enough and give your rabbit at least 2 hours a day of exercise in a larger space.
• Regular vet visits. Schedule annual vet check-ups to make sure your rabbit is healthy.
• Reduce stress. Making sure your rabbit doesn’t live in a noisy, scary environment can do a lot to prevent GI stasis. Indoor housing is generally much safer and less stressful for rabbits.

Check your rabbit’s bottom to be sure it’s not dirty, so that it won’t attract any flies.
Poopy butt-Poopy butt is a condition that occurs when a rabbit is unable to keep their butt clean. Smushed cecal droppings will stick to the rabbits fur on their butt and form into a ball of poop over time. This condition is very smelly, and it’s uncomfortable for your rabbit.

In addition to being a little bit gross, it can be dangerous for a rabbit to remain in this condition. The feces and cecal matter stuck to the rabbit’s butt will attract flies. Your rabbit will be susceptible to the deadly fly strike. 

This happens when a fly chooses to lay eggs on your rabbit (usually around their bottom), and when the maggots hatch they start to eat through your rabbit. It’s a horrifying infestation and can lead to death within a 24-48 hour time period.

Causes-Poopy butt is caused when a rabbit is unable to clean themselves. This could mean the rabbit is obese and therefore cannot reach their behind to clean it. Elderly rabbits who have developed arthritis also tend to have trouble keeping their behind clean. And disabled rabbits that don’t have the mobility are also plagued with poopy butt.

Prevention-With a disables or elderly rabbit, occasional butt baths might be inevitable. You can help your rabbit out and make these baths less frequent if you do some spot cleaning regularly, to try to prevent the poop from building up.

With obese rabbits, the best thing you can do to help your rabbit stay clean is to get them on a healthy diet. Most of the time the problem is the amount of dry food pellets and treats rabbits are eating. 

Rabbits should be eating a mostly hay-based diet (such as timothy hay), and fresh leafy greens should make up the second largest portion of their diet. Rabbit’s should really only be having a small amount of pellets every day (about ¼ cup for an average sized rabbit), and sweet treats (including carrots) should only be given sparingly.

If your rabbit has poopy butt, you might need to give them a butt bath. Make sure you hold your rabbit securely so only their back legs and butt get wet.Butt baths-As a general rule, you should not bathe your rabbit. But if you’re dealing with a rabbit who has developed poopy butt, you might have no choice but to give them a butt bath. Check here for a detailed step-by-step of how to give your rabbit a butt bath.

This is a very tedious process that can take quite a while. If you’re going to give your rabbit a butt bath, I recommend finding a partner to help you keep the rabbit calm during the whole process. The basic steps include:

1. Get a small bin and put a folded towel along the bottom.
2. Fill the bin with a couple inches with warm water. 
3. Gently pick your rabbit up and place their butt in the water.
4. Swirl the water around and soak the soiled area around your rabbit’s butt.
5. Use your fingers to gently pull the poop off of your rabbit’s butt.
6. Remove your rabbit from the water and place them onto a towel.
7. Gently pat the wet areas of your rabbit with the towel.
8. With a hair dryer on the lowest heat setting, start to dry and fluff up the fur on your rabbit’s butt.
9. Keep going until your rabbit is completely dry.

Tip: Moving the hay near the litter box can encourage your rabbit to use the litter box more.
​Litter training a rabbit. Litter training your rabbit will make it a lot easier to keep track of your rabbit’s health. You’ll be able to see exactly how much they’re pooping. All the poop is in one place that you can easily clean out every day. This will help you stay on top of your rabbits health and catch any signs of sickness early.

A change in litter box habits can also be an indicator of health problems in rabbits. If they’ve been litter box trained and then suddenly stop using the litter box, this is an indicator that the rabbit is suffering from some illness or stressor. An important symptom you wouldn’t have if you never litter trained your rabbit.
Can you catch diseases from a rabbit’s poop? For most people, there is no reason to be wary of rabbit poop. Parasites such as tapeworms and pinworms are host specific and won’t affect humans. Practicing basic personal hygiene by washing your hands after you come in contact with their feces is all you really need to do.

Some rabbit pee does contain a microorganism fungus called E. cuniculi. Many rabbits will be carriers of this and shed spores in their urine. While technically possible, infections from this for people with healthy immune systems is extremely rare. However, E. cuniculi could pose a risk to people with AIDS or otherwise compromised immune systems.
Rabbit poop as garden fertilizer, If you’re a gardener, rabbit poop is actually a great fertilizer. Rabbit droppings don’t harbor diseases like cat and dog feces might, so it’s safe to use even if you’re growing food. The droppings also have high levels of trace nutrients that you can add straight to your garden or your compost pile.

Megacolon

Megacolon is an inherited genetic condition that causes the nerve endings in a rabbit's intestinal tract not to function properly, and it often gets progressively worse as the rabbit gets older. It can lead to a slowing or stoppage of food through the digestive system and needs to be regulated with motility medication(s), which help move the food through a rabbit's system so that blockages or back ups don't occur. Rabbits with megacolon typically have poops that are irregular shapes and sizes. Without treatment, a rabbit's abdomen can become distended from backed up materials in the cecum.
 
For rabbits with megacolon, it's critical to notice any signs of discomfort, lack of appetite, decrease in poops, or change in poops, as these are signs the condition could be worsening and veterinary help should be sought immediately. Rabbits with megacolon require more regular preventive vet visits than other rabbits as their condition should be checked by a veterinarian to see if any medications need to be changed or adjusted. At HRS headquarters, motility medications have helped lengthen the lives of many rabbits with megacolon and they can help prevent stasis in these rabbits, too. A GI crisis for a rabbit with megacolon can further damage their intestinal function, so prevention is key. The good news is that many oral motility medications can be compounded and flavored with yummy tastes like banana and many rabbits love taking them!

Rabbits with megacolon may not absorb the nutrients from their food well. Without treatment, rabbits can lose weight and muscle, especially along their back. Rabbits with megacolon need pellets in their diet for the extra nutrition and calories, and they may need larger servings than other rabbits. They may do better on an extruded-type pellet - these are easier to digest as they are pre-cooked. Supreme Selective pellets and Versele-Laga Complete are two examples. Rabbits with megacolon often do well with up to unlimited greens for the moisture and fiber. Some rabbits are more sensitive to a particular vegetable(s), so it's important to observe your rabbit when you introduce new greens. As sugars in the diet can cause overgrowth of the bacteria Clostridium in a rabbit's GI system and cause gas and toxins to be produced, we recommend not feeding fruit to rabbits with megacolon. 

Charlie spotted rabbits suffer from the megacolon syndrome. The deleterious effects of the 'En' gene manifest themselves at several levels in homozygous 'EnEn' individuals. Many newborns die at weaning or shortly thereafter. Those that survive often develop chronic megacolon, a syndrome that worsens with age. This condition is caused by an abnormal dilation of the colon and by the absence of neuroganglionic cells (aganglionosis) regulating the muscular contractions of the digestive system, which allow its content to progress towards the anus.

The activity of the intestine as well as the cecum is affected. The small intestine is shorter in megacolon rabbits, compared to normal rabbits. The pH of the intestinal content at the initial portion of the small intestine (duodenum) is also lower than that observed in normal rabbits. Absorption of sodium (Na+) through the wall of the cecum is much reduced. As a result, this organ has a reduced content of dry matter derived from the ingested food. Abnormal liquefaction of the intestinal content has also been observed in the first half of the colon (proximal colon).The heart and adrenal glands of megacolon rabbits are larger than those of healthy rabbits. It is possible that the increase in the size of these organs is associated with the metabolic megacolon disorder.

​ Effects of megacolon on health and fecal production. Abnormalities of the intestine and the cecum result in a distension of the abdomen. Megacolon rabbits often have the appearance of having a pot belly stomach. These changes lead to intestinal food malabsorption and, consequently, nutritional deficiencies. These rabbits must receive a variety of food rich in fiber: good quality pellets containing minerals and vitamins, fresh hay and, if tolerated, a variety of fresh vegetables and aromatic herbs. In some megacolon rabbits, the administration of vitamin C or multi-vitamin supplements has allowed them to gain vitality and produce more normal looking and drier hard droppings. Fecal production is also affected. The hard droppings are large, oval, and rich in water, like a sponge. It is impossible to detect the presence of fibers when fresh. The latter only appear once the droppings have dried out, which may take a few days.


​Head Tilt (Torticollis) in Rabbits 


What is "head tilt?" The condition medically known as torticollis (Latin for "twisted neck") and sometimes as "wryneck" makes a rabbit's neck twist, causing the head to tilt sideways. Sometimes, torticollis is accompanied by nystagmus, a constant, involuntary movement of the eyeballs. The direction and nature of nystagmus can help your vet determine the cause of the torticollis in order to prescribe appropriate treatment. Signs of torticollis may develop gradually or appear quite suddenly, but the result is the same: a bunny is walking around with her head on sideways. In severe cases, the bunny may be so disoriented that he simply cannot walk, and spends much of the time either lying on his side in apparent paralysis, or rolling in a wild attempt to regain footing. Of course, the sight of a bunny in this condition is distressing to the human caregiver. But far too many a bunny suffering a treatable case of torticollis has succumbed to his caregivers' well-meaning desire to "not let him suffer."

In truth, head tilt is usually not only survivable, but treatable, though recovery may be gradual. Even a rabbit with a head tilt can live a happy, comfortable life as long as there is no pain, and the bunny enjoys eating, drinking, and being loved. I would consider euthanasia only as a last resort, if all attempts to treat the condition have failed, leaving the bunny in misery, unwilling to eat, drink or act normally at all. Remember that a permanently tilted head is not a symptom necessitating euthanasia! Many rabbits with their heads tilted at a jaunty angle are living completely happy lives, running and playing with all the vigor of their straight-headed bunny pals. The most important thing is to address the source of the head-tilt symptom. Once this is accomplished, improvement of the rabbit's posture will usually follow gradually, with physical therapy and exercise.

It is not uncommon for torticollis to appear suddenly. As with almost any illness, the more rapidly the cause of the problem is diagnosed and treated, the greater the chance for full recovery. If you do not already have a good veterinarian who is experienced with rabbit medicine, please use the House Rabbit Society Veterinarian Listings to find one in your area.

A bunny with a head tilt is a very sad sight. Are we doing the right thing to keep him alive? Is he still happy? Will he ever be cured? These are the questions for most in our minds when one of our rabbits suddenly develops this problem.
Possible causes of head tilt (also known as torticollis or wry neck) are:

• Middle/inner ear infection (otitis media /interna)
• Stroke (cerebrovascular accidents)
• Trauma
• Cancer (neoplasia)
• Cervical muscle contraction
• Encephalitozoonosis
• Cerebral larva migrans
• Intoxication

A diagnosis as to the cause of the problem is frequently made after elimination of other possibilities. Lets examine these one at a time, starting with the one thought to be most common:

Inner Ear Infection
An inner ear infection may have started with an outer ear infection, which remained unnoticed and untreated and gradually worked its way into the inner ear, or with a middle ear infection, which resulted from an upper respiratory infection. Or it may have arisen from bacteria in the nasal cavity or bloodstream. A radiograph of the head may help determine if the middle ears are affected. Some of the bacteria which have been cultured from ear infections are Staphylococcus sp, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Pasteurella multocida, Bordetella bronchiseptica, Proteus mirabilis, Streptoccus epidermidis, Bacteroides spp. and Escherichia coli.

Treatment needs to be aggressive and prolonged. If exudate (pus) is found deep in the ear canal, a culture and sensitivity should be done in order to determine the bacterial agent and which antibiotics will be most effective in eliminating the infection. However, if it is impossible to access the bacteria in order to do the culture, many veterinarians will opt to treat with one of the antibiotics usually successful in curing an inner ear infection, such as enrofloxacin, chloramphenicol or penicillin G procaine with benzathaine. If no improvement is noticed after 4 weeks, a change in antibiotic is recommended.

If attempts to clear the infection with antibiotics appear to be failing, the veterinarian may suggest ear surgery to be able to obtain a sample for a culture and sensitivity, to remove exudate, and to provide drainage. Antibiotics need to be withheld for 3 days prior to obtaining a culture. One treatment includes leaving a drain. However, the exudate that rabbits produce is frequently very thick and does not drain.

If the head tilt is extreme, a steroid may be prescribed in an attempt to reduce the inflammation. If the rabbit is not eating or drinking, the doctor may recommend that fluids be administered subcutaneously and food given orally by syringe.

Although middle and inner ear infections reportedly have a poor cure rate, I know many cases of success in getting rabbits through this illness. The "secret" is long term antibiotics, frequently a minimum of 30 days. However it may be necessary for a rabbit to be on antibiotics for 6 months or even for the remaining years of his life. This treatment in conjunction with a loving and supportive environment can provide the rabbit with a good quality of life even if the disease cannot be completely eradicated.

WHAT WE HAVE DONE TO TREAT HEAD TILT

​This is not advice-always consult a vet or experienced rabbit breeder. 

1st sign of head tilt/off balance/dizziness/eyes not focussing:
1 dose of Ivomec (1 drop per lb.) the 1st day only
1 dose a day of Safeguard liquid wormer (0.35/cc per lb) for 30 days. If the case is severe we give double the dose 2 times a day, morning and evening. 
Penicillin for 3 consecutive day, off 4 days; repeat for 3 weeks straight (0.15 cc per lb)
massage neck daily
I will mix nutri-drops, critical care, organic baby food pumpkin and Pedialyte/Rowe Hydrolyte to keep them eating and strength up. 
You can use goats milk/kitten formula for those under 8 weeks

Stroke
Stroke is usually suspected on the basis of physical signs. Imaging to diagnose this problem is available to humans but difficult to arrange for companion rabbits. As in humans, a cerebrovascular accident can kill, but if it does not, then the rabbit may initially be left with one side of his face, and perhaps one entire side of his body affected. One side of his face will droop, he may drool, and one eye may not function properly. He may not move normally or may move in circles. Function usually will slowly return over a period of months. Almost three years after a stroke, one of my rabbits has only a slight tilt to his head, unnoticeable, unless pointed out. Benny just looks a bit quizzical.

Care for a bunny who has suffered a stroke involves nursing him through his difficulties in eating, drinking and moving. Antibiotics do not help these cases, but sometimes are given to help rule out infection. Acupuncture should also be considered in treatment of these cases.

Trauma
A blow to the face, neck or head can result in an injury to the brain which can cause the rabbit to have a head tilt. Trauma even could result from a panic reaction. Depending upon the severity of the trauma, an anti-inflammatory might be helpful to speed recovery.

Cancer
Tumors occurring in the brain, neck or ear could produce a symptom of head tilt.

Cervical muscle contraction
A "muscle spasm" could cause a temporary head tilt. This situation will resolve itself once the muscle is relaxed.

Encephalitozoonosis
Encephalitozoon cuniculi, a protozoan parasite, can cause brain disease (meningoencephalitis and microscopic cysts), and can result in paralysis anywhere in the body, since every part of the body is controlled by a specific part of the brain. (See the HRJ Vol. III No. 2 for a detailed description of this parasite.) Frequently there are signs preceding a head tilt caused by E.cuniculi such as tripping, dragging of feet, tipping over. These symptoms may have appeared and then vanished weeks or months prior to the head tilt. A blood test for antibodies to E. cuniculi can tell whether your rabbit has been exposed.

Cerebral Larva Migraines
Baylis Ascaris  are round worms which live in the intestine of raccoons and skunks. A rabbit may acquire eggs from these works by eating grasses, food, or bedding contaminated by feces. Larvae hatch from the eggs and migrate into the brain, where they live and grow and destroy brain tissue. There is no known cure for this invasion. Ivermectin probably does not penetrate the brain in sufficient quantities to kill the larvae, although it may kill them before they reach the brain.

Intoxication
This could be caused by ingestion of lead, found in paints or imported pottery, or ingestion of a toxic plant such as the woolly pod milkweed.

Caring for a rabbit with head tilt

Regardless of the cause, most cases of head tilt have similarities. The "down" eye (the one facing the floor) will usually not close and will require eye ointment to keep the eye moist.

Lack of balance is what causes rabbits to "roll" and be unable to stand, so I try to pick them up as little as possible. When you must pick your rabbit up, hold him securely against your own body, to help him feel as stable as possible. Depending upon the size of your rabbit you can usually figure out how to confine him to a smaller space (perhaps a sweater box with the higher sides). Place one of the synthetic sheepskin rugs (that allows urine to pass through but will keep the bun dry) on the floor of the cage or box, and then place rolled towels or small blankets to help prop him up, so that he will be less likely to roll when he loses his balance. A stuffed toy bunny friend also helps.

Most rabbits will keep eating but may need to be hand fed with lots of sympathy with every bite of food. He may not want his pellets, but he will usually eat a variety of fresh green veggies, carrots and fruits if you hold them for him. It may help to switch from timothy to alfalfa hay to encourage him to eat lots of roughage.

If your rabbit decides to decline food, you will have to be ready to syringe feed him. There are many recipes for syringe feeding and you can be fairly creative. The primary point is to get food into his stomach so that his gut doesn't stop moving, which would add further complications to the process of getting him well. A sample recipe might be pellets mixed with 2 parts water, mixed garden baby food, some banana, some powdered acidophilus, some apple sauce (some of whatever he usually likes that has a strong taste). Feed him as frequently as possible throughout the day, and as much as you can get down him at each feeding. When he clenches his teeth and won't swallow, stop for awhile and try more later.


Winning or Losing the Fight

While many cases of head tilt can be successfully treated, others cannot. Regardless of the cause, sometimes a rabbit who survives will be left with a slight head tilt for the rest of his life. While the rabbit will adjust rapidly, his caregiver is the one who may have more difficulty accepting the "cosmetics" of the situation. Rabbits are mighty fighters and you can help him in his fight by offering lots of sympathy and care.

​Here are a few herbs and what they are recommended for. These are listed in order by herb name. Natural remedies work great for small ailments. I
have seen the effects for treating GI problems, Nest box eye, Diarrhea, ear mites, etc. with natural means work. You should ALWAYS be feeding lots of good grass hay, tonic weeds like plantain and dandelion, raspberry, blackberry, strawberry leaves, willow twigs and leaves if they are available. These things will contribute to your rabbits’ good health, but they are not cure-alls.

Just a reminder that seeds purchased for planting are not safe for rabbits. Most of them have been treated with fungicides etc. Stick to seeds purchased as feed or ones you have harvested yourself.

BIRCH – Chewing, pain relief, anti-inflammatory, diuretic.

BLACK OIL SUNFLOWER SEEDS – Coat Condition

BLACKBERRY – Used for pregnant does, summer cooling, stimulate appetite, diarrhea and safe introductory green for young kits use leaves and fruit, this is a very soothing to rabbits and can help cool rabbits in the summer heat by increasing circulation, awesome addition for pregnant does in the hot summer

BLUE COHOSH- Works in the same ways as Shepard’s Purse. It can be used if doe has a hard time birthing or kit gets stuck. It will dilate the birth canal. Do not give while pregnant, wait until doe is due. It will induce labor. Also it will help in healing once kits are born.

BORAGE – Laxative, Increases milk flow of nursing does, helps with fevers, reduces stress, A great treat after a doe gives birth, plus you can check her litter while she is busy eating her treat.

CHAMOMILE – Pain relief, calm nervous rabbit, one of the best eye wash for weepy eye Chamomile tea and honey!!!!! Just make a cup of tea, a little stronger than you would drink it and add a teaspoon of honey. I use an old syringe w/o the needle to squirt into the eye. You can also use as a compress and as a wipe for the eye. It will work wonders. Both chamomile and honey are anti- everything! microbial, fungal, and with antibiotic properties. Let the rabbit eat some before you treat for eye problems because of its pain relief and calming effects will make the rabbit easier to handle.

CHICKWEED – Anti-inflammatory, healing of cuts, molt

CLEAVERS – Healing of cuts, laxative

COLTSFOOT – Respiratory expectorant

COMFREY – Healing, bone formation, ill rabbits, stressed and weak rabbits, if you have a rabbit off feed try a few leaves of comfrey this is one of my favorite herb tonic for rabbits! You can cut it down and dry it like hay to store for winter use (can be cut down up to three times here in Maine) They also love the freshly harvested leaves(I have never wilted it) . The plant has a calming effect on rabbits Comfrey is a good source of vitamin A and good for pregnant and nursing does. It is a digestive aid, helps with wool block and is used for many other things. It supports the immune system, good for the stomach, feed as a general tonic. In extreme doses, comfrey can cause diarrhea. This is its effects working too hard and if left unnoticed, the rabbit may dehydrate. When used with common sense, Comfrey is one of the best herbs for rabbits.

DANDELION – Blood purifying, respiratory ailments, anti-inflammatory, bladder infections, diarrhea, milk flow of nursing does, good treat for does after having a litter. Some rabbit respiratory problems, such as pasteurellosis, can eventually cause serious problems including head tilt, loss of balance and death. There have been tests on rabbits that were treated with dandelion’s showing that it is effective against pneumonia, bronchitis and upper respiratory
infections. Use fresh leaves, flowers and dig up root, the root can be dried to make a weak tea to add to the rabbits water. Well known for its curative powers. The bitter milky sap stimulates the working of all glands, including the milk glands of lactating does. The plant has both laxative and astringent qualities and regulates constipation and diarrhea.

ECHINACEA -Immune system stimulant and broad spectrum antibiotic. In the lower doses it’s the stimulant and in higher doses acts as an antibiotic. Anti-inflammatory with anti-viral properties. It can be grown in nearly every backyard and easily available at most health food stores. Echinacea is a great preventive herb to use for your rabbits. I feed a few leaves every now a then to my rabbits daily greens mix to boost the immune system and fight infection. Research has shown that echinacea increases production of interferon in the body. It is antiseptic and antimicrobial, with properties that act to increase the number of white blood cells available to destroy bacteria and slow the spread of infection. It is also a great herb to dry and add to your winter hay blend! You
can also get the capsules at heath food stores add 4 capsules of the echinacea to one gallon of water and boil and cool store in fridge and add 1/4 herb water to 3/4 water and fill water bottles, crocks, ect.

ELDER FLOWER – Respiratory expectorant, fevers

EUCALYPTUS – Dried and powdered, and sprinkled repel fleas

EYEBRIGHT – Weepy eye wash

FENNEL – Bloating, gas, milk flow of nursing does

GARLIC – Immunize against disease, antiseptic, antibiotic, bloating and gas, wormer, respiratory expectorant. This stuff works it is just hard to get a rabbit to eat it!

GINGER – Infertility in bucks

GOATS RUE – Milk flow in nursing does

GOLDEN ROD – Anti-inflammatory
​
GRAPEFRUIT SEED EXTRACT- As for worming rabbits, grapefruit seed extract does the job well and is all natural. 10 drops in a gallon of water for 2 weeks, or longer if there is a known bad problem. This also helps to worm them and along with raw pumpkin seeds this mix should clean out your rabbits. I regularly run grapefruit seed extract through their water at least 2 times a year with a few raw pumpkin seeds on top of their food and have never had a problem with coccidiosis. I also use it when I bring in new stock this has many uses as a bactericide, fungicide, anti viral, anti parasitic

LAMBS QUARTERS- Another good wormer for rabbits I only feed lamb’s quarters only when it is young rabbits will reject it as it gets older. In spring it is very useful because it starts early when greens are a bit limited

LAVENDER – Circulation problems, nervous stress, exhaustion, induces labor. To bring on labor or expel placental material etc. in problem kindling’s. Use with caution. sparingly. in extreme cases only. The flowers are actually a mild tranquilizer, acting upon the heart in easing blood pressure rather than acting upon the brain as an anti-stimulant. Great for stressed out rabbits.

LEMON BALM – Anti-bacterial, antiviral, bloating and gas, diarrhea, reduce stress

LICORICE – Good for gastric inflammation and coughs.

LINSEED – Laxative, helps with molting

MARIGOLD – Bruises, slowly healing wounds, ulcers, skin diseases, digestive problems

MARJORIM – Coughs, inflammation of mouth, throat. Digestive problems, uterine discomfort, calm nerves

MEADOWSWEET – Weepy eye wash
​
MILK THISLTE – Helps take ammonia from the blood and protects both the liver and the kidneys, increases milk flow in nursing does

MINT – Firms loose stools, decreases the milk flow of does during weaning, Good herb for treating mastitis. Safe as food for dry does and bucks DO NOT FEED to lactating does. Used for colds, eye inflammation, liver stimulant, and used to relax the muscles of the digestive tract and stimulate bile flow so mint is useful for indigestion, gas and colic. Avoid prolonged use, it can irritate the mucous membranes. Do not give any form of mint to young babies. Should be harvested just before flowering.

MOTHER WART – Weepy eye wash

NASTURTIUM – Strongly antiseptic.

NETTLES – Increases milk flow in nursing does

OATS – Feed sparingly in summer though. Good for digestive problems, diarrhea, kidney and bladder problems. Small kits may not be able to swallow oats and may actually choke on them.

PARSLEY – Enriches the blood, urinary problems. Roots are used for constipation and obstruction of the intestines. Good for the cure of inflammation of bladder & kidneys, digestive disorders, fertility in bucks, productivity in does

PAPAYA- For the wool breeds, I would give them a papaya enzyme tablet every couple of days to help keep them from getting wool block. We always have
had healthy rabbits. The enzyme helps to break down the hair in the gut, and keep things moving. I have also given them to the meat rabbits. The rabbits love them, You can get the tablets at most health food stores.

PINEAPPLE- Bromelain, the actual enzyme in the pineapple, is most abundant in the stem of the pineapple, the center part that we throw away. Fresh pineapple are best as the enzyme will be removed once frozen or processed. Bromelain is good for diarrhea. It will reduce intestinal fluid secretion and is suggested that bromelain has mucolytic and digestive properties. So it’ll dilate the mucus coating of the GI tract as well as helping to breakdown proteins good for gut mobility and helping with hairballs good to give to rabbits during a molt

PLANTAIN – antimicrobial, antispasmodic, healing of cuts, respiratory expectorant, fevers. Great as a safe introduction of young kits to greens, works great for diarrhea. This is something I feed in my daily green feed mix. Leaves soothe urinary tract infections and irritations. Good for gastric inflammations. Juice pressed from fresh leaves is given orally for inflamed mucous membranes in cystitis, diarrhea and lung infections. Use the juice for inflammations, sores, and wounds. Plantain does not cause digestive problems. The plant regulates the function of the intestines and is generally good for the mucous membranes. Useful in the diet of weanling’s and can be harvested and dried for year round use.

PURSLANE- Purslane contains more Omega-3 fatty acids than any other leafy vegetable plant know of. There was a study where they fed Purslane to rabbits with high cholesterol and it lowered it.

RASPBERRY – Prevention and treatment of kindling problems like retained afterbirth. Improves condition during pregnancy, ensuring speedy and strong birth. Feed during the last two weeks of pregnancy as a great preventive prenatal supplement. Also wonderful cure for digestive ailments including diarrhea, infertility in bucks, fevers. and a safe introductory green for young kits

RED CLOVER – weepy eye
​
ROSEMARY – Lowers blood pressure, Ideal for exhaustion, weakness, and depression in rabbits. The stems and leaves invigorate the circulation, stimulate the digestion, and are good for cold conditions. Harvest fresh dry or grow inside for year-round use.

SAGE – dried and powdered, and sprinkled repel fleas, dry up does who’s kits have been weaned. Reduces lactation when weaning, digestive stimulant and a uterine stimulant. This herb should be used with caution and should be avoided during pregnancy.

SASSAFRASS – dried and powdered, and sprinkled repel fleas

SCOTCH PINE – bronchitis, sinusitis, neuralgia, rheumatism.

SHEPHERDS PURSE – Uterine disorders, A strong medicine for diarrhea. Use sparingly.

SORREL – Very cooling and soothing, it is a much cherished treat in the summer.

STRAWBERRY – Whole plant is antiseptic and cooling. Leaves are rich in iron and are supposed to prevent miscarriage. Externally used for inflamed areas, rashes and sore eyes.

THYME – Good for diarrhea The stems and leaves are ideal for a useful as a digestive remedy, warming for stomach ache, chills and associated diarrhea. Expels worms. Harvest before and during flowering in summer discard the woody stems
​
WILLOW – Intestinal inflammation. Willow twigs and leaves. Useful winter food, easily gathered and stored. Also a pain-reliever and possible natural coccidiostat.

EAR MITES-(EAR CANKER)- Any type of food grade oil may be used- olive oil, corn oil, almond oil, etc.. A few drops of tea tree oil mixed in to any of the oils listed will help the healing process the oil serves 3 purposes -soothes the skin, smothers and suffocates the mites, and speeds the healing process. Put 6 or 7 drops in each ear massaging the base of the ear to saturate the inner ear completely. The rabbit will shake out the nasty stuff after a few treatments. Treat for the first 2 days than every other day for 14 days after this, 2 times a week for the next 2 weeks ear mites have a 28 day life cycle so you must treat up to the 28 days to make sure all the mites are killed. I make a mix of mineral oil with a few drops of apple cider vinegar, 5 or 6 drops of camphor oil and rosemary oil in the store bought mineral oil container and use a few drops in each ear as a preventive when I trim the rabbits nails.

EYE INFECTION / WEEPY EYES- Eye problems are not uncommon in rabbits, dirt or other debris can get lodged in a tear duct(happens more often to kits in the nest box) and if not washed out can cause a bacterial infection wash with saline or any human eye wash(remember they have all probably been tested or rabbits at some point)take a few drop of tea tree oil and smeared it around the inflamed area tea tree oil is a natural antiseptic and is very good at curing microbial infections. See CHAMOMILE above for more info

GI PROBLEMS- Rabbits need a high fiber diet for their best intestinal health. Grass hay is great for the healthy movement in the rabbits digestive track. If a rabbit is not eating there is a problem! If their poop pellets get small and dry or none at all it is a sign of wool block or GI stasis. You have to get the gastric tract moving again. Get some 100% canned pumpkin NOT the canned pumpkin pie filling (it has spices in it the will hurt your rabbits) Suck some up in a big syringe (remove the needle). Then put the plastic tip of the syringe into the side of the rabbits mouth and very slowly squeeze some out a little at a time give about 2 teaspoons for each dose wait about 3 hours and do it again you can give it 4 to 6 times a day every day until they start eating and pooping. Slippery elm bark in its shredded bark form fed to rabbits should help with GI problems if the rabbits will not eat it grind some up as a powdered form in its water mix 1 teaspoon in the drinking water 3 to 4 time a day. I have always had good luck feeding a few comfrey leaves and in a few days they are back on the regular feed schedule

KIDNEY OR BLADDER PROBLEMS- Any diuretic that will increase urine flow is good for the urinary tract in rabbits. This helps to keep bladder sludge down
(caused from high calcium intake).Dandelion root tea in the water with cranberry treats several time a week will help with any problems. The cranberry prevents bacteria from attaching to the wall of the bladder so it get washed out with the urine.

PREGENCY TONIC- Combine the following- dried, raspberry leaf, nettle, and goats rue (Galegaofficinale) in equal parts, and half part Milk Thistle (Silybum marianum). All organic either grow your own or get it from a health food store Feed: 1 Tbs. per day at feeding time, to pregnant Does beginning one week before kindling through the first month. These herbs help ease kindling, offer nutrition and support lactation. Just sprinkle 1 Tbs. over their food, once a day.

Snuffles
Snuffles is one of the most common diseases that strikes domestic rabbits. Almost every rabbit breeder or long-term rabbit owner has dealt with or is at least familiar with this devastating respiratory disease. This disease is very contagious and can also affect the eyes, ears, and other organs. If detected early, it can be treated, but it can become chronic or fatal if left untreated.

Causes of Snuffles in Rabbits-Snuffles is a general term describing a group of upper respiratory signs. While there can be different causes of these infections, the most common and generally accepted cause of snuffles is infection with the bacteria Pasteurella multocida. There are several different strains of these gram negative bacteria and depending on the strain that infects a particular rabbit, the signs can be either mild or severe. Some strains are commonly found in the nasal tract of rabbits, but may not cause infections unless the animal is stressed or has a suppressed immune system.

Symptoms of Snuffles in Rabbits-The signs of snuffles in rabbits can be varied, but are usually associated with the upper respiratory tract. Many infected rabbits will initially develop a watery nasal discharge followed by sneezing and then a thick, whitish to yellowish nasal discharge. These infected rabbits will often make a loud snuffling or snoring sound due to the fluid and mucous in their nasal tracts. Because rabbits groom their faces with their front paws, infected rabbits will often have discharge and mats on the inside of their forepaws.

The disease can also travel to their eyes causing conjunctivitis and a resulting discharge, or it may travel to their ears causing ear infections. These ear infections can then cause 'torticollis' (wryneck - twisting of the neck), head shaking, scratching, a head tilt, disorientation, circling, or inability to stand. The infection will sometimes clear up in the nose, but be persistent in the ears. In some severe cases, a rabbit may develop pneumonia or bacteremia (the bacteria enter the bloodstream). In a few cases, abscesses may form under the skin, in joints, or in the internal organs.

Snuffles Treatment-Snuffles is generally treated with antibiotics for 14-30 days. Antibiotics commonly used include enrofloxacin (Baytril), ciprofloxacin, and trimethoprim sulfa. Rabbits need beneficial bacteria in their intestine to aid in digestion and they often need to be supplemented with these bacteria during and after antibiotic treatment; therefore, these drugs should only be used under strict veterinary guidance. In severe cases, supportive treatment consisting of fluids and supplemental nutrition may need to be given as well.

If the strain of Pasteurella multocida is a mild one and the immune system of the infected rabbit is strong, the symptoms may be mild and the animal will recover without treatment. However, if the strain is aggressive or the animal has a weakened immune response, the disease can be severe, chronic, and even fatal. The goal with treatment is to use an effective antibiotic at the first signs of infection. If the infection goes for days or weeks without treatment, it is likely that it will become chronic and very difficult to eliminate. In most cases, the signs of the disease may disappear, but the bacteria are usually still present, only in smaller numbers. Even in cases that are treated early, some animals will still develop chronic infections in their sinus passages that require long-term treatment, or even lifelong treatment to keep them under control.

Preventing Snuffles in Rabbits-Snuffles is a very contagious and difficult disease to treat, so prevention plays a very critical role in trying to control and eliminate this disease. Breeders need to take special precautions including strict sanitation and quarantine procedures. For the pet rabbit owner, the best prevention is to select a healthy rabbit. When choosing an animal for purchase, make sure that she is free of all signs of infection, including a runny nose. When choosing a young rabbit, the mother and all the litter mates should also be free of all signs of disease. If you purchase from a breeder, it is also wise to observe all the rabbits on location and make sure snuffles is not present.

The disease can be present in the nasal cavities without the rabbit showing any signs of disease, so a healthy-appearing rabbit can still develop signs later if he is stressed. Reducing stress is also very important in helping a rabbit avoid infections and reducing the severity of the disease if he does become infected. Common causes of stress in rabbits include poor nutrition, improper housing, chilling, overcrowding, or aggression from other rabbits.

To prevent stress, provide the best possible housing. Offer a variety of fresh vegetables and free choice timothy hay in addition to a properly formulated pelleted diet. Also, avoid letting your rabbit come into contact with other rabbits, particularly if they are sick. Because this disease can be transmitted through secretions on your hands and clothes, be very careful when handling other rabbits, and always wash your hands and clothes after handling a rabbit other than your own.
​
Snuffles is a disease that can have devastating consequences to rabbits. Because it is so contagious and widespread, rabbit owners need to be aware of its signs and seek veterinary attention at the first sign of illness. By understanding the disease and taking precautions against it, rabbit owners can help reduce both the severity and incidence of this disease.

The Rabbit Liver in Health and Disease

Anatomy and Function

The rabbit liver is divided in left and right regions by a deep cleft with the right and left lobes further divided into anterior and posterior lobules.1 There is a quadrate lobe, which is behind the gallbladder. Lastly, there is a small circular lobe called the caudate lobe next to the right kidney. This lobe has a narrow attachment that makes the caudate lobe prone to displacement and torsion.2 The gallbladder is deep within the abdominal cavity. There are separate openings for the bile duct and pancreatic duct into the duodenum, which is the first part of the intestinal tract after the stomach.2 Interestingly, unlike most other mammalian species, rabbits secrete mainly biliverdin in their bile, as opposed to bilirubin.2 Rabbits produce a large amount of bile, approximately 250 mL a day, which is 7 times as much as a dog on a weight basis.

Diagnosing Liver Disease

Rabbits with liver disease may present with a variety of clinical signs ranging from slight depression to serious illness. When a rabbit is showing signs of illness, a complete physical examination is necessary. Based on a physical examination, further testing such as radiographs (xrays), bloodwork, or other tests may be needed. When a chemistry panel (part of the blood work) is performed, several of the enzymes measured are examined to determine if liver disease is present. Here is a brief summary of bloodwork changes that may occur with liver disease1:

Alanine Aminotransferase (ALT): This enzyme is of limited use for rabbit liver disease since ALT is found in many tissues.3 However, if ALT is significantly elevated, it may indicate liver inflammation and necrosis (such as that caused by parasites, and or hepatic lipidosis).3

Alkaline Phosphatase (ALP): ALP is found in many tissues including bone, intestine, gall bladder, kidney, placenta, and liver. Because the highest levels in the liver are in the cells surrounding the bile ducts, liver conditions causing bile stasis may cause ALP elevations.

Aspartate Aminotransferase (AST): This enzyme is also found in a variety of tissues in the rabbit including the liver, heart, pancreas, and muscle. Liver cell necrosis may cause elevations in this enzyme.

Gamma Glutamyltransferase (GGT): Elevations in GGT are very specific for rabbit liver disease. This makes this an important enzyme to measure when liver disease is suspected and elevations occur with liver cell damage and bile stasis.

Bilirubin and Bile Acids: Elevations in bilirubin in the rabbit can occur with bile obstruction. Unlike many other mammals, rabbits do not usually become jaundiced (yellow color to skin) with liver disease. Bile acids may be elevated with liver disease in the rabbit.

Serum Albumin: The liver is responsible for making albumins; therefore, decreases in serum albumin levels can indicate severe liver disease.

Other Diagnostic Tests

Radiographs (x-rays) are helpful with diagnosing liver disease. Changes in the size, shape, density, and position should be noted.1 Ultrasound is a non-invasive technique that allows visualization of the liver. Because ultrasound can often be performed without sedation or anesthesia, this is ideal to obtain more information in a rabbit with liver disease. When sedation is used, ultrasound can be used to guide the veterinarian to collect aspirates (aspirates are taken by inserting a needle into the tissue and using a syringe to suction cells out of the tissue; when the cells are placed on a slide, they can be examined for any abnormalities) or biopsies (biopsies involve taking a small piece of the organ using a biopsy instrument; this gives a larger section of tissue for an analysis and allows for a better chance of finding a diagnosis for the problem) of the liver. These aspirates or biopsies are examined under the microscope with special stains to determine the exact cause of the liver disease. If ultrasound-guided aspirates or biopsies are not helpful, laparotomy (exploratory surgery) or endoscopy (using a rigid instrument with a camera such that the organ can be visually examined through a small incision and samples collected without having to make a large abdominal incision) may also be used to examine the liver directly and collect samples for analysis.

Liver Diseases and Treatments

Supportive care is a large part of treating rabbits with liver disease. Supportive care may include fluid therapy, feeding (force feeding or placement of feeding tubes), and minimizing stress. Vitamins, such as vitamin B and K, may be helpful if the rabbit has not been eating.1

Coccidiosis: Eimeria stiedae is a parasite that can affect the liver of rabbits. This is a common disease in rabbitries and young rabbits. Coccidia may cause depression, diarrhea, weight loss, distension of the belly, and death.1 Diagnosis can be made by fecal examination but fecal can be negative because cocyites are shed intermittently. In severe cases where severe liver damage has occurred (the parasite can create yellowish-white nodular abscess-like lesions in the liver - see figure 1), the rabbit may die despite therapy. This parasite can be treated with a variety of drugs including sulfa preparations such as sulfamethoxine or trimethoprim-sulfa combinations. Good hygiene and preventing fecal contamination of food and water bowls help control this disease.

Liver fluke: Fasciola hepatica is a liver fluke that can affect rabbits that graze in pastures containing carrier snails (snails are an intermediate host for the parasite). Diagnosis may be made by a fecal examination. In some cases, the disease may not be detected until postmortem examination (examination of the tissues after death). Treatment is with a dewormer and removal of the rabbit from contaminated pastures.

Microbial diseases: Bacteria such as Pasteurella multocida, Clostridium piliformis, colibacillosis, salmonellosis, listeriosis, tuberculosis, Taenia cystneros, and parasites such as toxoplasmosis may cause liver disease and death in rabbits.1 Diagnosis may be made with liver aspirates, biopsies, or cultures. Treatment with various antibiotics may or may not be effective, depending on severity of disease and individual response to therapy.

Toxins: Aflatoxins are fungal substances that may be present on moldy food. Aflatoxins are very toxic to the liver and can cause sickness and death in affected rabbits. Diagnosis may be suspected with liver biopsy and aflatoxin levels of food can be measured. Treatment is mainly supportive and involves removal of affected food. If severe liver damage has occurred, the rabbit may die before a diagnosis can be made. Lead and other heavy metals may cause sickness and death in rabbits. Diagnosis of heavy metal toxicosis can be made with radiographs and checking blood metal levels.

There are a variety of other toxins, either inhaled or contact, that can be damaging to the rabbit liver. Most notable is the fact that cedar and pine shavings are cytotoxic (toxic to cells) and may cause liver damage; additionally, these shavings used as bedding could be linked to a higher incidence of tumors.4, 5 Eucalyptus and vermiculite may also be toxic.6 These materials should be avoided as bedding in rabbits and rodents.

Hepatic Lipidosis: Hepatic lipidosis, also known as fatty liver, describes the abnormal accumulation of fat within the liver cells. This is usually not a primary condition in rabbits, but is caused by periods of not eating. Some of the causes of hepatic lipidosis may be dental disease, fiber content in the diet that is too low, obese animals that become sick, difficult pregnancies, and others.1 Radiographs, bloodwork, and ultrasound can help diagnose this condition. Treatment is mainly supportive and includes nutritional support as quickly as possible. Prognosis may be poor depending on the severity of disease. Interestingly, tea polyphennols (found in green tea) have recently been shown to increase hepatic lipase activity and protect liver cells from fatty degeneration in rabbits.

Neoplasia: Many tumors may affect the liver of rabbits. Lymphoma, bile duct adenoma, and carcinoma are among the most common types of tumors described in the rabbit liver.1 Tumors in other parts of the body, such as uterine tumors, may spread to the liver. Liver tumors have a poor prognosis, as surgery is usually not an option. Radiographs, ultrasound, and liver biopsy are used to diagnose liver tumors. Blood tests are not good screening tests for liver tumors, as they may be normal until late in the disease. Chemotherapy has been used in rabbits and may help prolong the life of the rabbit if a liver tumor is detected.

Malocclusion (imperfect positioning or meeting of the teeth when the jaws are closed), with resultant improper tooth wear, and overgrowth of the incisors or molars, can occur in rabbits.

Overgrown points or sharp spikes that form on the edges of teeth may cut and badly damage the tongue, cheeks, or gums. Overgrown lower molars may form a bridge over and entrap the tongue. Overgrown molars may hit each other in the back of the mouth, thereby preventing the front of the mouth from closing completely and changing the way the incisors meet. As a result, incisors do not wear down properly and can overgrow.

Overgrown upper and lower molars in the back of the mouth hit each other as the rabbit tries to close its mouth. As these teeth continue to grow and are not worn down, they become impacted in the upper and lower jaws, just like impacted wisdom teeth in people. All of this can lead to pain when chewing, the development of sores and abscesses in the mouth, difficulty eating, drooling, pawing at the mouth, problems grooming, and weight loss.

Malocclusion with resultant improper tooth wear, and overgrowth of the incisors or molars, can occur in rabbits. Misshapen incisors and malocclusion of the incisors will sometimes cause these front teeth to protrude out of the mouth, grow at an angle to each other, curl back into the mouth, curl sideways, or take on other problematic positions.

Rabbit teeth normally grow at a rate of approximately 1 cm each month, and in the case of an unopposed incisor, growth can be as much as 1 mm per day.

Why do these teeth grow abnormally? There are likely many causes of tooth elongation, malocclusion, or improper growth and wear rates. A significant contributing factor is a diet lacking in enough roughage or fiber to promote normal tooth wear. Wild rabbits grind down their teeth all day by chewing constantly on grass. Pet rabbits may eat some hay, but they often eat a great deal of crumbly rabbit pellets that do not help wear down the teeth. Some pet rabbits do not eat hay at all. A significant contributing factor is a diet lacking in enough roughage or fiber to promote normal tooth wear. In addition to improper diet, malocclusion may also have a hereditary or congenital component especially in young dwarf or lop-eared rabbits. These breeds seem to be over-represented when it comes to dental disease in rabbits.

There are also theories that indoor rabbits that are not exposed to ultraviolet light required to form vitamin D in the skin (which enables absorption of calcium from the diet), do not have properly formed teeth due to a lack of calcium. Therefore, genetics, environment, and diet all potentially contribute to the development of dental disease in rabbits.

What can be done about this? To minimize the development of dental problems, your rabbit should be fed a diet consisting mainly of high-fiber hay, with smaller amounts of pellets and fresh produce, so that she chews her food constantly and wears her teeth down in the process.

Rabbits with dental problems need regular veterinary care. Overgrown incisors should be shortened by a veterinarian familiar with rabbits; this usually needs to be done regularly, every few weeks to months, as the teeth continue growing. Veterinarians used to clip rabbits' teeth with nail clippers, but this is no longer recommended, as trimming teeth this way often damages the teeth or gums.

Rabbits with dental problems need regular veterinary care. Most veterinarians who regularly treat rabbits now use dental burrs on dental drills to file down the incisors and molars, often under anesthesia. Treating poorly aligned molar teeth can be challenging but is part of routine care for a well-trained rabbit veterinarian. If a rabbit is having recurrent dental problems, one long-term solution is to remove the affected upper and lower incisors or the affected molars to prevent the need for repeated future teeth filing. This procedure may be simple or complex, depending on the number of teeth affected, their location in the mouth, and whether infection is present. Although teeth extraction sounds drastic, it is without doubt the best long-term solution to the problem if chronic overgrowth occurs, and is the only solution if teeth are infected and their roots are abscessed.

Following tooth filing or extractions, it is very important to get the rabbit eating immediately, to promote appropriate wearing of the existing teeth and to keep the gastrointestinal tract functioning properly. Veterinarians will routinely teach owners to syringe feed their rabbits commercially available powdered formulas mixed with water for rabbits that are not eating. Annual veterinary check-ups are crucial for all rabbits to identify any developing dental problems and prevent them from progressing.

Viral hemorrhagic disease

Also called rabbit calicivirus (RCV), rabbit hemorrhagic disease (RHD), and viral hemorrhagic disease (VHD), this highly contagious disease was first recognized in China in 1984 but now has an almost worldwide distribution. Viral hemorrhagic disease is caused by a calicivirus and, although the incubation period is up to three days, animals may die suddenly without any clinical signs. The disease is transmitted by direct contact with infected rabbits, rabbit products, rodents, and contaminated cages, dishes, and clothing. The virus can also transmit over short distances in moist air. Rabbits in close proximity to other rabbits (such as at breeders and rabbit shows) are at a greater risk. Rabbits that recover can become carriers of the virus and may shed virus up to 4 weeks.

If there are signs of infection, they include decreased to no appetite, fever, lethargy, and collapse. There may be convulsions and coma, difficulty breathing, foaming at the mouth, or bloody nasal discharge. Some animals survive this acute phase but die a few weeks later from liver failure.

In February 2020, animal health officials detected rabbit hemorrhagic disease virus serotype 2 (RHDV2) for the third time in the United States, since 2018. Since that detection, RHDV2 has spread to multiple states across the Southwest. RHDV2 does not impact human health. Cases of RHDV2 in North America RHDV2 is highly contagious and, unlike other rabbit hemorrhagic disease viruses, it affects both domestic and wild rabbits. Many times, the only signs of the disease are sudden death and blood stained noses caused by internal bleeding. Infected rabbits may also develop a fever, be hesitant to eat, or show respiratory or nervous signs. In February 2020, RHDV2 was detected in a domestic rabbit in New York City. The virus was quickly identified, isolated and eradicated.

There does not appear to be an epidemiological link, but the disease was later confirmed in a rabbit in New Mexico in March 2020. Since then, RHDV2 has continued to spread in New Mexico and across multiple states, including Arizona, California, Colorado, Nevada, and Texas. How RHDV2 Spreads The RHDV2 virus is very resistant to extreme temperatures. It can be spread through direct contact or exposure to an infected rabbit’s excretions or blood. The virus can also survive and spread from carcasses, food, water, and any contaminated materials. People can spread the virus indirectly by carrying it on their clothing and shoes. Protect Your Rabbits with Biosecurity A vaccine for RHDV2 is not currently licensed in the U.S. Instead, it is up to you as the owner to protect your rabbits by practicing good biosecurity. Biosecurity means taking simple steps every day to keep germs away from your animals.

These actions will significantly reduce the chance of RHDV2 or other contagious diseases affecting your rabbits. Follow these recommended biosecurity practices: 

• Do not allow pet or wild rabbits to have contact with your rabbits or gain entry to the facility or home.
• Do not allow visitors in rabbitries or let them handle pet rabbits without protective clothing (including coveralls, shoe covers, hair covering, and gloves).
• Always wash hands with warm soapy water before entering your rabbit area, after removing protective clothing and before leaving the rabbit area. 
• Do not introduce new rabbits from unknown or untrusted sources. Do not add rabbits to your Rabbitry from animal shelters or other types of rescue operations.
• If you bring outside rabbits into your facility or home, keep them separated from your existing rabbits for at least 30 days. Use separate equipment for newly acquired or sick rabbits to avoid spreading disease.
• Sanitize all equipment and cages moved on or off premises before they are returned to the Rabbitry. We recommend disinfecting with 10% bleach or 10% sodium hydroxide mixed with water.
• Establish a working relationship with a veterinarian to review biosecurity practices for identification and closure of possible gaps. If you are a breeder or grower who purchases live rabbits, even if you have existing biosecurity measures in place, you should review your practices and take steps to address potential gaps.

Other Steps to Prevent Disease Spread The goal is to prevent this disease from impacting domestic and wild rabbit populations. To minimize the risk, here are some actions you can take to help: 

• If you live near or visit an area where this disease was confirmed, do not touch any dead wild rabbits you may see. You may contact your local veterinarian, state and federal animal health officials to learn if RHDV2 has been detected in your area.
• If you see multiple dead wild rabbits, report it to state wildlife officials. • If you own domestic rabbits, do not release them into the wild. If your rabbits appear ill or die suddenly, contact your veterinarian. 
• If you volunteer at animal shelters or wildlife rescue facilities, be aware that this disease has been found in wild rabbits. If rabbits appear ill or die suddenly, contact the facility’s veterinarian. 
• Anyone working with rabbits should always practice good biosecurity. This includes basic steps like washing your hands before and after working with rabbits and not sharing equipment with other owners.
• The virus is hardy and you need to be careful about how you dispose of a rabbit that has died. A carcass could be a means of spread of the virus. Contact your veterinarian or state or federal animal health officials for guidance. 

AILMENT or DISEASE MEDICATION DOSAGE

ANXIETY
HomeoPet Anxiety 3 doses daily (dosage: 1-20 lbs 5 drops)

COCCIDIOSIS
Corid (amprolium) recommended by  Dr Chris Hayhow
water treatment 5cc to one gallon water-for 5 days (prevention)
water treatment 5cc to one gallon water-for 5 days (treatment)
or 1cc orally for 15 pounds of rabbit-for 5 days
        (1/4 cc orally for 3.75 pound rabbit)

 DIARRHEA
Acid Pak 4 Way
3/8 tsp. to one gallon of water--this can be used constantly without fear of overmedication since it contains all natural ingredients

 
Benebac
1 gram for 10 pounds animal weight

 
Kaopectate
1/4 tsp. every hour till symptoms subside

EARMITES/Fur mites
Ear Mite drops several drops in each ear daily for a week, then weekly for a month

 
Ivomec paste
1 rice size pellet for upto 4 lb rabbit--orally

 How I Ivomec
by Joy Kretzer
Ivomec 1% injectable
(can be given orally)
1 drop per pound of body weight -- orally or injected
repeat treatment in one week
for prevention, treat every 3 months

EYE INFECTION
Terramycin Eye Ointment
place in each eye 4 times a day till symptoms subside

FERTILITY
Heinold Doc's Rabbit Enhancer
1 tsp daily

 
Vita Stress
1 tbsp. pellets daily for two weeks (treat bucks and does)

 
Wheat Germ Oil
1/2 tsp. to 10 lb. rabbit daily

FEED SUPPLEMENT
Nutrical
give 1/8 teaspoon per pound of body weight daily

FUR BALL/HAIR BALL
Petromalt
1 inch (2.5 gm) daily

FUR MITES
Ivomec 1% injectable
(can be given orally)
1 drop per pound of body weight -- orally or injected
repeat treatment in one week
for prevention, treat every 3 months

FUR CONDITION
Wheat Germ Oil 1/2 tsp. to 10 lb. rabbit daily
Doc's Rabbit Enhancer 1 tsp daily

 
Papaya Papain tablets
1 tablet daily to improve fur and help guard against furball

SNUFFLES
COLD
Vet RX
few drops in each nostril, twice daily
HomeoPet Nose Relief
5 drops three times daily till symptoms subside
Baytril-must be prescribed by veterinarian

SORE HOCKS
Happy Jacks Pad Kote
administer daily till symptoms subside-
also, place solid floor(sheetrock or wood)
in cage for rabbit to rest on

STOMACH BLOAT
Immunize Paste
under 5 lb= 1cc twice a day

STRESS/OFF FEED
Acid Pak 4 Way 2X
3/8 tsp. to one gallon of water

HomeoPet Anxiety
3 doses daily (dosage: 1-20 lbs 5 drops)

Aqua Vite
1/4 tsp. to one gallon of water

VENT DISEASE
Penicillin Cream
apply topically for 3-5 days

Penicillin Procaine G
inject 1cc per 10 lbs--treat once, skip three days,
treat, skip three days treat--total of three injections

WORMS
Ivomec 1%
1 drop per pound--orally

Safeguard Pelleted Dewormer
Dwarf Breeds 3 pellets daily for 3 days
All Other Breeds 5 pellets daily for 3 days

Safeguard
rice size (1/32 tsp) amount daily for 3-5 days

 
 
 

---