We are always happy to help and answer questions, but please keep in mind that I work full-time in healthcare, take college classes, Faith is in school, we have rabbits to care for, 2 rescue dogs, etc. So it would help us and the rabbits is you reviewed all the information on this page and the FAQ page before contacting us to see if that gives you the answers you are looking for 1st.
Bringing your rabbit home
There is no set timetable as to how long it will take for your bunny to become comfortable with you, but with perseverance, a lot of patience and plenty of time your furry friend will become a loving companion.
You must always consider what previous experiences bunny might have had and to allow for such possibilities as traumas, lack of socialising, fearful existence etc, even if they are only young rabbits.
Above all you must make sure bunny has a positive experience whilst interacting with you. Remember that they are naturally shy creatures and it is up to you to reinforce the message that they are safe, secure and well loved.
Every bunny is different, however in our experience it generally takes around 6 months for a bunny to finally feel settled and happy in their new home. Bunnies that don’t appear to have settled and relaxed may be unhappy. You need to explore the possible reasons why.
Main Points to Remember
Provide a stress free environment (e.g. no loud music or blaring TV or screaming children) Let them explore their new environment on their own terms Spend a lot of time with them Pick bunny up daily NEVER overwhelm bunny – stay at their level and do not try to force too much human interaction
One of the best websites ever, has tons of healthcare information for rabbits:
riseandshinerabbitry.com/
These are some of the questions we often get about basic rabbit care, illness, diseases, etc. are covered on the Healthcare page:
Rabbit Cage Set up- Their space should be at least 4 times the size of the rabbit, have room for a litter box, water bottle/dish, food bowl & hay rack. Bunnies should be let out of their pen for at least a few hours every day for exercise. An important part of rabbit care is to clean your rabbit’s cage on a regular basis to help prevent any illnesses. Cleaning the cage itself can be done with white vinegar diluted with water (4:1 ratio). Make sure that everything you washed is dry before you put it back in the cage. We use Wabbitats that you can buy on Amazon for out house bunnies or 24 x 30 & 24 x 36 wire stackers in the Rabbitry. If you choose to use a different cleaner, make sure that you check to see if they are toxic to your rabbit. CLEAN CAGE AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK! https://www.wikihow.pet/Set-up-a-Rabbit-Cage
Some people use outside hutches, because ours have been raised indoors the temperature changes, heat, cold, could easily make them sick or kill them, especially a younger rabbit. If you decide that an outside hutch is your only option, they have to be acclimated slowly, I will caution that Holland Lops and Jersey Woolies do better indoors, the house, temperature controlled barn, etc. https://animals.mom.me/kinds-cages-should-dwarf-rabbits-need-5083.html#:~:text=Outdoors,wire%20sides%20for%20air%20flow.
Set up a Litter Box-Rabbits have a natural inclination to poop and pee in one area. Take advantage of this by setting up a medium-sized cat litter box or shallow storage bin near their food/water bowls and hay feeder. Put a thin layer of rabbit-safe, pellets type litter at the bottom of the litter box. Do not use clay/clumping cat litter or Cedar shavings, as they are not safe for rabbits. Then put hay on top of the litter. Rabbits like to eat hay and poop at the same time, so this will encourage good litter box habits. Use ONLY pine shavings! https://rabbit.org/faq-litter-training-2/
Provide Fresh Hay-A rabbit’s diet should mainly consist of hay. Fresh hay should be provided to rabbits at all times. Baby rabbits should be given Timothy hay and adult rabbits can be fed a mixture of timothy, grass/meadow, or oat hay. Alfalfa should not be given to adult rabbits because of the higher protein and sugar content. Hay is important for rabbits because it provides the essential fiber needed for good digestive health and it helps wear down a rabbit’s teeth (which continuously grow) for good dental health.
Fresh water should always be available to your rabbit. If you have a cage, a hanging water bottle is a option, rabbits will also drink from a water bowl. On a hot day you can drop an ice cube or two in your rabbit’s water dish. If your rabbit does not seem to be drinking enough water you can leave the vegetables fairly wet when you present them or give them plain pedialyte.
Pellets-We use Rowe & Purnia Show We feed ¼ cup twice a day. These should be purchased so that they are fresh, as rabbits will turn their noses up at stale pellets. Look for pellets that are high in fiber and low in protein. Too many pellets can lead to obesity and other health issues in rabbits. Do not give pellets that have “treats” mixed in (dried corn, etc.). These additives are never healthy for rabbits and can cause digestive problems. If you decide to use a different brand of food than ours you need to mix equal parts of old feed with new feed and gradually decrease the amount of old feed, you may use a few Old Fashioned Rolled Oats (not quick oats) mixed in to avoid diarrhea, which can kill a bunny quickly. http://www.bunssb.org/bunnies/how-choose-rabbit-pellets/
Treats-should be given only occasionally. Do not feed your rabbit items like breads, crackers, pasta, pretzels, cookies, chips, or sweet cereal. Although branded for rabbits, many commercially-sold bunny treats are high in fat and sugar, such as yogurt chips, and should not be given. Fruit is the best option for a treat, but again you should give it only in small amounts because of the sugar content. We try to purchase organic fruits that we know are free of pesticides. Like vegetables, be sure that they are thoroughly washed. Some fruits that rabbits enjoy include: Strawberries, Raspberries, Bananas, Pineapple & Apples (no seeds). NEVER GIVE A BUNNY FRUITS OR VEGETABLES BEFORE 6 MONTHS OF AGE!
When choosing vegetables look for something fresh and free of pesticides. Always wash your vegetables thoroughly before feeding them to your rabbit. Feed new vegetables in small quantities until you can judge if your rabbit reacts well to them. Do not feed rabbits the leaves from houseplants as many are poisonous to rabbits. Your rabbit may enjoy some of the following vegetables: Basil, Carrot tops (carrots are high in calcium and should be given sparingly), Cilantro, Clover, Collard greens, Dandelion leaves, Kale (sparingly) Lettuce – romaine or dark leaf (no iceberg lettuce and no cabbage), Mustard greens & Parsley. https://resources.bestfriends.org/article/rabbit-diet-what-feed-bunny
Rabbit Proof the House-Rabbits need space to run around and explore. In order to create a safe space for your bunny and to protect your belongings, you will need to thoroughly bunny proof the area. This includes covering all wires, if you don’t want your baseboards gnawed, you can cover them with plastic guards, block off certain areas since rabbits like to chew the undersides of beds, items on bookshelves, house plants, etc. Please see http://bunnyproof.com/
Grooming
Please visit: https://therabbithaven.org/rabbit-grooming-basics
http://jerseywoolyrabbitcare.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-to-groom-your-jersey-wooly.html
Rabbit Toys
Toys are important because they provide mental stimulation. Without challenging activities to occupy your rabbit when you’re not home, your rabbit, especially a solitary rabbit, will get bored. This could lead to depression and/or excessive destruction. Physical exercise: Your rabbit needs safe activities to keep her body in shape as well as her mind. They need things to climb on, crawl under, hop on and around, dig into, and chew on. Without outlets for these physical needs, your rabbit may become fat or depressed, or may create jumping, chewing, or crawling diversions with your furniture. Bunnies love plastic balls with bells (we get ours from the Dollar Store/Large Cat one). Empty toilet paper rolls stuffed with hay is a favorite, also plastic/wooden baby teething/key rings. https://resources.bestfriends.org/article/rabbit-toys-buy-and-diy-options
Can Rabbits Live with Other Pets?
It's complicated. Simply put, there is no rule about whether dogs and rabbits can live together. Some can, some can't. Some dogs are very calm around rabbits, and show no prey drive whatsoever. The two animals can be friends, even curl up and nap together. But some dogs DO have an instinct to hunt and potentially hurt a rabbit. We have to look at a lot of factors:
If either animal is ill, keep them apart.
Introducing your dog to a new rabbit
Introduce the rabbit and dog from a distance and with a cage between them. First make sure there is a barrier between your rabbit and dog. This can be your rabbit’s cage or a fence. Keep you dog on the leash and bring the dog into the same room as the rabbit, but do not let the dog approach the cage or barrier.
Watch and wait to see how your animals react. Does your dog lunge for the rabbit? Does the rabbit scramble away and hide? If this happens, quickly lead your dog back out of the room to reduce the amount of stress the two animals are experiencing. Try this again for the next few days and see if the animals start to have calmer reactions to each other. If they do, it’s time to allow the dog to get closer to the rabbit’s enclosure. Keep the dog on the leash, and make sure your rabbit is not trembling from fear as your dog approaches. Supervise your rabbit and dog as they interact, If, and only if, your rabbit and dog are starting to feel comfortable and non-aggressive with each other through the bars of the enclosure, you can attempt an in-person interaction. Keep the dog on the leash at all times and make sure he will sit and stay on command. Make sure your rabbit has a place to run and hide so they never feel cornered.
Allow your rabbit to approach the dog first and watch for signs of aggression in both animals. If there is even a hint of stress for either animal, end the interaction and try again another time. If the pets are behaving well, allow them to curiously interact with each other. Always supervise them and always be ready to end the interaction if you need to. Over the next few weeks give them a number of these short interactions to allow them to get used to each other.
If all goes well, you can eventually allow your dog and rabbit to interact off-leash. But it is best that you never let these two pets interact without supervision. It would be very easy for a dog to accidentally hurt a rabbit, so even if they do successfully become friends, you want to be very careful.
Will a dog attack a rabbit? It is possible that your pet dog will try to attack your rabbit. Even a dog that is normally very calm can have the instinct to chase after small prey animals. It’s possible they will try to harm your rabbit.
Do rabbits get along with cats?
In theory, rabbits and house cats can get along. Whether or not they actually do, depends on the disposition and personality of your specific pets. If you have a cat that always seems to want to go after squirrels or birds outside, it’s probably not a good idea to introduce a rabbit to the family. Similarly, if you have a very territorial or aggressive rabbit, you’ll want to be very careful about bringing any other pets into the family. But there are many house cats who are very calm. They might be curious about a new rabbit coming into the home, and over time will be acclimated to the new animal. Rabbits also will likely need a transition period where they will be timid around a cat. But eventually the two will learn to live with each other, and they might even become friends.
It is more likely a cat and rabbit will get along if you get them both as young animals. Animals that grow up together are more likely to feel a bond with each other. They won’t see the other animal as a threat or an animal to hunt because they’ve been together all their lives. How to introduce rabbits and cats. You want to be very careful when you introduce a rabbit and a cat. DO NOT leave them unsupervised.
Introduce the rabbit and cat with a cage between them. When you first introduce the two pets, make sure you have some sort of barrier between them (such as a fence or cage). Give the rabbit a place to hide, such as a box or alcove, and make sure your cat has a place they can run if they get spooked by the rabbit. If either animal shows signs of fear or stress, then you should end the interaction and try again tomorrow. (a fearful rabbit will run and hide, or start thumping with their back legs). Supervise your rabbit and cat as they interact. After a few days (or possibly weeks) of giving them these short interactions, your pets might start to feel comfortable and curious around each other. They shouldn’t be acting scared or stressed when they see each other, and they aren’t trying to attack each other through the bars. At this point you can try giving them the chance to interact without a barrier or cage separating them. Supervise their interaction very closely and be ready to break them up at the smallest hint of danger. Even if your pets seem to be okay with each other right away, it’s best to continue to only allow them to interact when you can supervise them for at least a couple of months. After a few months your pets will likely start to get used to each other. You should still consider keeping them apart when you are not home or when you are asleep, but by now your pets are both part of the family.
Will a cat attack a rabbit? Cats are natural predators, so some cats will attack rabbits, but not all. This depends on the disposition of your cat, and also the size of your rabbit. Some cats are more territorial and more natural hunters than others. They will be more likely to chase after squirrels or other small animals outside. Or they might be the kind of cat who stalks birds from the window and tries to catch them. These cats probably are not the best match, since they may try to attack your pet rabbit also. There is also size to consider. Cats are generally not going to try to hunt animals that are as big as they are, and some rabbits are as big (or bigger) than cats. Pairing a large rabbit with a cat can greatly increase the chance of success at including both pets as part of the family.
Will a rabbit attack a cat? Surprisingly, it is also possible that the rabbit will be aggressive and attack the cat. Rabbits are very territorial animals. If they feel the cat is encroaching on their home territory, they might attack. Rabbits can also lash out and scratch or bite if they are afraid. If the rabbit feels cornered by the cat, even if the cat is not showing any aggressive behavior, the rabbit might attack. Usually a rabbit will try to run away before they attack though, so always supervise and make sure your rabbit has a way out of any interaction.
THE rabbit we know and love has evolved in response to important evolutionary pressures. The rabbit’s success is based on its ability to reproduce prolifically whenever favorable circumstances arise. Winter weather conditions and the accompanying lack of food suppress the female’s ovarian activity during the winter months, but for the rest of the year (January to October) rabbits will breed… well, like rabbits. This ability was highly valued by man, leading to rabbit domestication: the rabbit was recognized as an excellent source of food and its ability to breed prolifically ensured a ready supply. However, the rabbit’s qualities as a companion animal have earned it status as a much-loved family pet. However, as a household pet, the rabbit’s breeding talents can cause health and behavioral problems. This article will discuss the whys, when's and how's of neutering the pet rabbit and will seek to dispel a number of concerns and misunderstandings surrounding these procedures.
What is neutering? Neutering involves the removal of a rabbit’s reproductive organs. In the case of a female rabbit, the ovaries and uterus are removed. This procedure is commonly called a spay or 1 / 5 ovariohysterectomy. In the male rabbit, the testes are removed. This procedure is called a castration. Why neuter pet rabbits? The demand for rabbits as pets can never keep up with the rabbit’s ability to produce endless numbers of offspring. The prevention of unwanted pregnancies is, therefore, one of the most important reasons for ensuring rabbits are neutered. Many rabbits are inaccurately sexed prior to re-homing. It is, therefore, not uncommon for owners sold two apparently same-sex rabbits to find themselves with a male and a pregnant female a few months later. Where there is a will, there is a way – and rabbits will most definitely breed given the slightest opportunity. In view of this, neutering is strongly recommended. Health benefits In addition to the prevention of unwanted pregnancies, there are significant health and behavioral reasons why rabbit owners should seriously consider neutering their pets. Pet rabbits can expect to have a much longer life expectancy than farmed or wild rabbits and they may develop diseases of the genital tract. Surgical removal of the ovaries and uterus will greatly reduce (if not eliminate) the risk of uterine tumors, infections and other problems. Similarly, in the male rabbit, the removal of the testicles eliminates the risk of testicular cancer and infection. Behavior Rabbits demonstrate a number of sexually-driven behaviors including aggression, urine spraying, mounting and nesting. Both male and female rabbits can spray urine as a means of marking their territory. This is likely to prove undesirable in a house rabbit. The strategic deposition of small piles of feces may also be seen. This behavior can be expected to stop (or at least decrease) following neutering. The sexually active buck can be expected to have a strong desire to mate and may attempt to do so with a range of animate and inanimate objects (ranging from other rabbits to dogs, cats and slippers). This behavior is largely hormone dependent and will reduce or stop following castration. Nesting behavior can induce a female rabbit to chew household furniture and other objects. In addition, a pregnant or pseudo-pregnant doe may become aggressive as she seeks to defend her territory and/or nest. This behavior can also be reduced or eliminated following sterilization.
Is neutering unnatural? It is certainly true that neutering is an unnatural procedure as it prevents the rabbit from breeding and, thus, demonstrating its full repertoire of natural behavior. However, it should be remembered that the domesticated rabbit is not kept under natural circumstances and this forces us to think carefully about how, in an unnatural environment, we can optimize the rabbit’s welfare. The pet rabbit is likely to live a long and rewarding life when protected from predation, hunger and disease and, it can be argued, these benefits far outweigh any limitations we impose on pet rabbits. Therefore, as part of our duty of care to the rabbit, we need to prevent reproductive diseases and unwanted pregnancies. In addition, reduced aggression allows rabbits of the same sex to be kept together, minimizing bite wounds, while enhancing the rabbit’s ability to develop a close bond with its owner. It is for these reasons that this so-called “unnatural” procedure is to be recommended.
What age should a rabbit be neutered? The most commonly recommended age for neutering is at approximately five months of age, immediately following the onset of puberty, which may, however, vary between four and eight months of age. This recommendation is a practical one because, at this age, surgery is least complicated and risky. Pre-pubescent rabbits have very small uterine horns that can be difficult to locate, while mature rabbits have more abdominal fat, which may also make the uterus difficult to find and remove. Male rabbits should only be considered to be sterile after a period of four to six weeks after castration. Therefore, they should not be introduced to an entire female in the month following their neutering. What if the rabbit lives alone? If the rabbit is male and does not have any undesirable behavioral characteristics, it may not need neutering. The incidence of testicular cancer in male rabbits is relatively rare and would not, in itself, warrant an absolute recommendation that single male rabbits be automatically castrated. For female rabbits, the health benefits can be significant. The incidence of reproductive disease in certain breeds of rabbit can exceed 50 per cent when they are allowed to reach old age, although in other breed lines it may be considerably lower. While care should be exercised in advising rabbit owners about the reasons for neutering, the routine neutering of female rabbits is widely recommended.
Is the procedure risky? There was a time when many vets would attribute a high anesthetic risk to the rabbit and discourage routine surgical procedures. Advances in rabbit medicine and anesthesia have considerably reduced this risk and there are increasing numbers of vets around the country with considerable experience in rabbit medicine and surgery. What are the side effects?
• Postoperative anorexia and ileus – failure to provide adequate pain relief and postoperative care can result in loss of appetite and suppression of the intestinal tract’s normal motility. Rabbits should ideally be eating and passing feces before going home.
• Wound complications – rabbits often interfere with their surgical wounds. The use of internal sutures and or surgical glue is therefore recommended. Inguinal herniation may very rarely be seen following castration and should immediately be brought to the attention of the vet.
• Weight gain – there is a possibility that a neutered rabbit may become predisposed to weight gain. Regular monitoring of a rabbit’s weight will identify any such changes and will allow the diet to be adjusted accordingly. Conclusions Neutering of male and female pet rabbits is to be recommended to all rabbit owners in order to prevent unwanted pregnancies and a range of health and behavioral problems.
Safe Food for Rabbits-
This is not a guide to the nutritional value of these foods and as always when starting rabbits on a natural feeding program
go slow so the gut flora can adapt to the new feeds you are feeding your rabbits.
RABBIT SAFE FRUIT-
RABBIT SAFE VEGETABLES-
SAFE IN MODERATION
Our rabbits get ACV in their water in 3 month cycles. 3 months on, 3 months off, 3 months on, etc. There is nothing harmful in ACV so it will not hurt the rabbits. Some older rabbit books reference ACV as a additive to their daily water giving it continuously to the complete herd. I plan on to keep putting ACV in my rabbits water, as I have seen the results in my herd! Add 1 to 2 tablespoons to a gallon of water. Start with one and work up to two, sometimes I do not even measure it just add a splash in a gallon jug and good to go.
So you should consider ACV as a daily preventive health maintenance program or just a monthly health tonic it is up to you, just remember to keep a jug handy were you fill your bottles and crocks so it is handy. You will see the greatest effect from this treatment about 4 weeks after beginning the ACV. Give it time and you will see the improved look and health in your rabbits.
I use the organic ACV with the mother in it so it is alive and still has all the valuable probiotics. Even regular ACV has great benefits just make sure it is apple cider vinegar and not apple colored/flavored distilled white vinegar.
Apple Cider Vinegar keeps the rabbits immune system up also preventing urinary tract problems like infections and bladder sludge (this is caused from excess calcium) and promotes a less potent urine therefore reducing the smell. ACV keeps the rabbits body’s ph regulated, clearing up skin conditions and infections. This adjustment in ph will also help with weepy eyes and other eyes issues. ACV is known for keeping the rabbits fur softer and shinier.
Many rabbit breeders feel that by adding ACV to your rabbits water this will result in healthier rabbits by increasing the nutrient absorption capabilities of the G.I. tract as well as helping with the whole digestive process. Extensive historical use in veterinary studies indicate that ACV added to feed or water can cure a mastitis infection and reduce the transmission rates of the bacteria in most livestock.
ACV is also said to boost fertility rates and produce more female kits in a litter, also said to make the does more willing to breed. ACV makes rabbits unattractive to fleas and mites by making the rabbit smell off. Making it a great repellent and health tonic. You can also mix a few drops of ACV and a little mineral oil to treat for ear mites by dropping 4 or 5 drops in each ear holding the ear flap closed for a minute or
two. then gently rubbing the base of the ear.
It can also be used as a cleaner for cages and crocks as well as keeping the green algae from growing in water bottles in the summer.
If you bring your rabbit to a show or transporting them, the water will taste the same as the water from home.
SAFE TREE AND SHRUB LEAVES-Should always feed only fresh young leaves:
SAFE HERBS-
Bringing your rabbit home
- Ensure you have new accommodation set up ready for their arrival.
- Ask for some of bunny’s used litter/bedding to place in their new home. This will help him/her to feel safe and to recognise their new home as belonging to them.
- The journey home will have been very stressful so place him/her straight into their new home and leave them quietly to settle in.
- Leave bunny in his/her new home for approximately 12-24 hours. This will allow time for them to make their new home their own. The need to recognise their new living space as their own is crucial to their sense of security.
- Playing quiet, calming music can prove soothing and help them to relax (at the sanctuary we play Classic FM!) .
- Bunny needs time to adjust to their new environment as they may be experiencing sights, sounds and smells for the first time. If bunny scrabbles or nips it is because they are on their guard and defending their new space. With patience and time this behaviour will stop.
- Remember that screaming children, loud music, blaring TVs and other animals are likely to be a new and frightening experience. Keep noise to a minimum!
- Supervise bunny’s first few playtimes, but leave him/her to explore at their own pace and without any intervention from you (unless they are in danger). You may find they spend their time ‘chinning’ every thing, including you – they are simply marking their territory!
- Leaving bunny to become familiar and comfortable with their new environment will greatly assist in the ‘bonding’ process between you and them.
- Make sure you place their litter tray, food and water in their play area. Be prepared for toilet ‘accidents’.
- You must begin handling bunny as soon as possible. You must pick them up once or twice daily so they will learn that being lifted is nothing to fear.
- Remember that rabbits are ground dwelling creatures and liken being picked up to being captured by a predator – they are, after all, prey animals.
- Be prepared for it to take several months before they become comfortable with being handled.
- NEVER PICK THEM UP BY THEIR EARS OR SCRUFF OF THE NECK! (See our ‘Guide to Handling’ for best techniques.)
- It is great fun to watch bunny explore their new environment, just make sure you remove anything you don’t want them to chew – exposed wires/cables, poisonous plants, books, magazines, clothing, shoes etc.
- It sounds obvious but you simply need to spend time with your bunny!
- Initially just sit on the floor with bunny and let them check you out. Try to avoid touching them at first so they can become acquainted with your smell and presence. Remember to stay at their level so as to not intimidate them.
- If after a few sessions they do not acknowledge you, try lying on your front on the floor so they can’t see your eyes/face. Hopefully this will prove less threatening to them and they may hop on your back and explore you!
- If this still fails to bring bunny close to you then you need to sit in their environment looking distracted, e.g. reading a book or watching TV. By appearing to be ignoring them they may learn to relax in your company and not perceive you as a threat.
- Once bunny has accepted your presence begin to offer them your hand. Either place it in front of them on the floor, or near their face, and let them sniff it. Gradually build up bunny’s trust and slowly move to stroke them.
Bunnies like to be stroked on the top of their heads or on the sides of their faces. If they are enjoying it they will relax, often lower their heads, or even quietly ‘tooth purr’.
- ...when they will eat at your side or from your hand
Initially avoid petting them whilst they are eating, they need to know they can trust you and relax to eat in your presence. - ...when they give you a ‘rude’ nudge
Bunnies will often use their heads to nudge you. They are letting you know they are there and want some attention, or food! - ...when they sit still when you approach them
This is a sign that they are truly confident in their home and do not perceive you as a threat – but always give them a tickle to avoid bunny feeling they are being ‘snubbed’! - ...when they dance around you upon your arrival
This is a sign that they are pleased to see you. They are most likely saying “hello, I’ve missed you, where’s my food!” - ...when they don’t run away when you pick them up
Even then, bunnies will tease you by running away as you to go pick them up – they are playing with you! - ...when they groom you!
Not many bunnies will choose to lick you but if they do count yourself very lucky indeed. - ...when they chin you
Once settled in this is a sign that they are claiming you as their own and love you greatly. - ...when they ‘tooth purr’ when you pet them
They will sometimes softly grind their teeth in approval. - ...when they flop over on their sides, roll on their back, or lie with their legs stretched out
This is a sign that they are content and greatly at ease. - ...when you just know that they are happy!
There is no set timetable as to how long it will take for your bunny to become comfortable with you, but with perseverance, a lot of patience and plenty of time your furry friend will become a loving companion.
You must always consider what previous experiences bunny might have had and to allow for such possibilities as traumas, lack of socialising, fearful existence etc, even if they are only young rabbits.
Above all you must make sure bunny has a positive experience whilst interacting with you. Remember that they are naturally shy creatures and it is up to you to reinforce the message that they are safe, secure and well loved.
Every bunny is different, however in our experience it generally takes around 6 months for a bunny to finally feel settled and happy in their new home. Bunnies that don’t appear to have settled and relaxed may be unhappy. You need to explore the possible reasons why.
Main Points to Remember
Provide a stress free environment (e.g. no loud music or blaring TV or screaming children) Let them explore their new environment on their own terms Spend a lot of time with them Pick bunny up daily NEVER overwhelm bunny – stay at their level and do not try to force too much human interaction
One of the best websites ever, has tons of healthcare information for rabbits:
riseandshinerabbitry.com/
These are some of the questions we often get about basic rabbit care, illness, diseases, etc. are covered on the Healthcare page:
Rabbit Cage Set up- Their space should be at least 4 times the size of the rabbit, have room for a litter box, water bottle/dish, food bowl & hay rack. Bunnies should be let out of their pen for at least a few hours every day for exercise. An important part of rabbit care is to clean your rabbit’s cage on a regular basis to help prevent any illnesses. Cleaning the cage itself can be done with white vinegar diluted with water (4:1 ratio). Make sure that everything you washed is dry before you put it back in the cage. We use Wabbitats that you can buy on Amazon for out house bunnies or 24 x 30 & 24 x 36 wire stackers in the Rabbitry. If you choose to use a different cleaner, make sure that you check to see if they are toxic to your rabbit. CLEAN CAGE AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK! https://www.wikihow.pet/Set-up-a-Rabbit-Cage
Some people use outside hutches, because ours have been raised indoors the temperature changes, heat, cold, could easily make them sick or kill them, especially a younger rabbit. If you decide that an outside hutch is your only option, they have to be acclimated slowly, I will caution that Holland Lops and Jersey Woolies do better indoors, the house, temperature controlled barn, etc. https://animals.mom.me/kinds-cages-should-dwarf-rabbits-need-5083.html#:~:text=Outdoors,wire%20sides%20for%20air%20flow.
Set up a Litter Box-Rabbits have a natural inclination to poop and pee in one area. Take advantage of this by setting up a medium-sized cat litter box or shallow storage bin near their food/water bowls and hay feeder. Put a thin layer of rabbit-safe, pellets type litter at the bottom of the litter box. Do not use clay/clumping cat litter or Cedar shavings, as they are not safe for rabbits. Then put hay on top of the litter. Rabbits like to eat hay and poop at the same time, so this will encourage good litter box habits. Use ONLY pine shavings! https://rabbit.org/faq-litter-training-2/
Provide Fresh Hay-A rabbit’s diet should mainly consist of hay. Fresh hay should be provided to rabbits at all times. Baby rabbits should be given Timothy hay and adult rabbits can be fed a mixture of timothy, grass/meadow, or oat hay. Alfalfa should not be given to adult rabbits because of the higher protein and sugar content. Hay is important for rabbits because it provides the essential fiber needed for good digestive health and it helps wear down a rabbit’s teeth (which continuously grow) for good dental health.
Fresh water should always be available to your rabbit. If you have a cage, a hanging water bottle is a option, rabbits will also drink from a water bowl. On a hot day you can drop an ice cube or two in your rabbit’s water dish. If your rabbit does not seem to be drinking enough water you can leave the vegetables fairly wet when you present them or give them plain pedialyte.
Pellets-We use Rowe & Purnia Show We feed ¼ cup twice a day. These should be purchased so that they are fresh, as rabbits will turn their noses up at stale pellets. Look for pellets that are high in fiber and low in protein. Too many pellets can lead to obesity and other health issues in rabbits. Do not give pellets that have “treats” mixed in (dried corn, etc.). These additives are never healthy for rabbits and can cause digestive problems. If you decide to use a different brand of food than ours you need to mix equal parts of old feed with new feed and gradually decrease the amount of old feed, you may use a few Old Fashioned Rolled Oats (not quick oats) mixed in to avoid diarrhea, which can kill a bunny quickly. http://www.bunssb.org/bunnies/how-choose-rabbit-pellets/
Treats-should be given only occasionally. Do not feed your rabbit items like breads, crackers, pasta, pretzels, cookies, chips, or sweet cereal. Although branded for rabbits, many commercially-sold bunny treats are high in fat and sugar, such as yogurt chips, and should not be given. Fruit is the best option for a treat, but again you should give it only in small amounts because of the sugar content. We try to purchase organic fruits that we know are free of pesticides. Like vegetables, be sure that they are thoroughly washed. Some fruits that rabbits enjoy include: Strawberries, Raspberries, Bananas, Pineapple & Apples (no seeds). NEVER GIVE A BUNNY FRUITS OR VEGETABLES BEFORE 6 MONTHS OF AGE!
When choosing vegetables look for something fresh and free of pesticides. Always wash your vegetables thoroughly before feeding them to your rabbit. Feed new vegetables in small quantities until you can judge if your rabbit reacts well to them. Do not feed rabbits the leaves from houseplants as many are poisonous to rabbits. Your rabbit may enjoy some of the following vegetables: Basil, Carrot tops (carrots are high in calcium and should be given sparingly), Cilantro, Clover, Collard greens, Dandelion leaves, Kale (sparingly) Lettuce – romaine or dark leaf (no iceberg lettuce and no cabbage), Mustard greens & Parsley. https://resources.bestfriends.org/article/rabbit-diet-what-feed-bunny
Rabbit Proof the House-Rabbits need space to run around and explore. In order to create a safe space for your bunny and to protect your belongings, you will need to thoroughly bunny proof the area. This includes covering all wires, if you don’t want your baseboards gnawed, you can cover them with plastic guards, block off certain areas since rabbits like to chew the undersides of beds, items on bookshelves, house plants, etc. Please see http://bunnyproof.com/
Grooming
Please visit: https://therabbithaven.org/rabbit-grooming-basics
http://jerseywoolyrabbitcare.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-to-groom-your-jersey-wooly.html
Rabbit Toys
Toys are important because they provide mental stimulation. Without challenging activities to occupy your rabbit when you’re not home, your rabbit, especially a solitary rabbit, will get bored. This could lead to depression and/or excessive destruction. Physical exercise: Your rabbit needs safe activities to keep her body in shape as well as her mind. They need things to climb on, crawl under, hop on and around, dig into, and chew on. Without outlets for these physical needs, your rabbit may become fat or depressed, or may create jumping, chewing, or crawling diversions with your furniture. Bunnies love plastic balls with bells (we get ours from the Dollar Store/Large Cat one). Empty toilet paper rolls stuffed with hay is a favorite, also plastic/wooden baby teething/key rings. https://resources.bestfriends.org/article/rabbit-toys-buy-and-diy-options
Can Rabbits Live with Other Pets?
It's complicated. Simply put, there is no rule about whether dogs and rabbits can live together. Some can, some can't. Some dogs are very calm around rabbits, and show no prey drive whatsoever. The two animals can be friends, even curl up and nap together. But some dogs DO have an instinct to hunt and potentially hurt a rabbit. We have to look at a lot of factors:
- What breed is your dog? Some breeds have strong instincts to chase, such as a Greyhound. Some breeds are herders, and will have a strong desire to keep the rabbit in a certain area or nip at the rabbit's back legs in typical herding fashion. Some breeds have had their hunting instincts really brought out, especially for the hunting of small animals, (think Jack Russell terriers, perhaps). This is not to say these INDIVIDUAL dogs can't be good with your rabbit, but on the whole, their genetic makeup may make it more difficult. We've got to respect both animals involved here. Most people, for instance, have a strong instinct to protect their home. Asking a human to stand by and watch while a stranger enters their home would be asking an awful lot. We need to remember how hard it is to resist instinct, and not ask a dog to overcome their nature.
- What is the individual dog's personality? Some Golden Retrievers (a breed known for a friendly and gentle nature) will NOT do well around a rabbit, and can be quite dangerous. Some Pitties ( Like our Khaleesi in our pictures) will be very kind and nurturing toward a rabbit, some may cause injury. Some Shelties will herd a rabbit to the point of exhaustion, some will play and cuddle nicely. There are exceptions to every rule. You cannot assume your dog will be OK with a rabbit based on breed alone, but need to take personality and history into account as well.
- Size doesn't matter. Big dogs can be gentle and sweet, little dogs can be dangerous. We have a 40 lb dog and a 120 lb dog in our house, and the big boy is gentle and kind with small animals, whereas the little dog cannot be permitted around them. Some big rabbits are calmer, some little ones have more confidence. You just can't go by the size of either animal.
- Some rabbits are simply more terrified of dogs. No matter how kind and gentle your dog is, your rabbit does not necessarily understand there is no threat. Perhaps your bun had a bad experience before they came to you. Perhaps your rabbit is a nervous type in general. Whatever the case, no rabbit should ever have to be terrified in their own home. This can lead to all kinds of behavioral and health problems.
If either animal is ill, keep them apart.
- If either animal is elderly and suffering from aches and pains, chances are tempers will flare and someone could get hurt.
- Puppies have sharp little teeth, and haven't learned bite inhibition. Keep them in the same room as the rabbit, perhaps, so that smells and presence becomes familiar, but we don't recommend allowing puppies and rabbits to play together.
- Leaving a rabbit and dog home alone together with full access to each other is not a good idea. If there is a storm, or a loud nose, or construction, if someone rings the doorbell...a million things can happen that can move your dog to an excited state. Not only can the escalated energy scare the rabbit, but it changes the whole dynamic between the two animals. Just like two dogs who live together can actually go after each other when overstimulated, your dog may turn on your rabbit.
- Can rabbits and dogs live together? Sometimes, sure. A DOG WHO CANNOT BE GENTLE AROUND RABBITS IS NOT A BAD DOG...but do respect both of your animals, and take your cue from them. Don't force, don't ask too much, of either of them. Give them both the chance to be who they are, and to feel safe and calm. If that means they must live apart, that is not a character flaw for either the dog or the rabbit. If they CAN be gentle friends, then that is AWESOME!
Introducing your dog to a new rabbit
Introduce the rabbit and dog from a distance and with a cage between them. First make sure there is a barrier between your rabbit and dog. This can be your rabbit’s cage or a fence. Keep you dog on the leash and bring the dog into the same room as the rabbit, but do not let the dog approach the cage or barrier.
Watch and wait to see how your animals react. Does your dog lunge for the rabbit? Does the rabbit scramble away and hide? If this happens, quickly lead your dog back out of the room to reduce the amount of stress the two animals are experiencing. Try this again for the next few days and see if the animals start to have calmer reactions to each other. If they do, it’s time to allow the dog to get closer to the rabbit’s enclosure. Keep the dog on the leash, and make sure your rabbit is not trembling from fear as your dog approaches. Supervise your rabbit and dog as they interact, If, and only if, your rabbit and dog are starting to feel comfortable and non-aggressive with each other through the bars of the enclosure, you can attempt an in-person interaction. Keep the dog on the leash at all times and make sure he will sit and stay on command. Make sure your rabbit has a place to run and hide so they never feel cornered.
Allow your rabbit to approach the dog first and watch for signs of aggression in both animals. If there is even a hint of stress for either animal, end the interaction and try again another time. If the pets are behaving well, allow them to curiously interact with each other. Always supervise them and always be ready to end the interaction if you need to. Over the next few weeks give them a number of these short interactions to allow them to get used to each other.
If all goes well, you can eventually allow your dog and rabbit to interact off-leash. But it is best that you never let these two pets interact without supervision. It would be very easy for a dog to accidentally hurt a rabbit, so even if they do successfully become friends, you want to be very careful.
Will a dog attack a rabbit? It is possible that your pet dog will try to attack your rabbit. Even a dog that is normally very calm can have the instinct to chase after small prey animals. It’s possible they will try to harm your rabbit.
Do rabbits get along with cats?
In theory, rabbits and house cats can get along. Whether or not they actually do, depends on the disposition and personality of your specific pets. If you have a cat that always seems to want to go after squirrels or birds outside, it’s probably not a good idea to introduce a rabbit to the family. Similarly, if you have a very territorial or aggressive rabbit, you’ll want to be very careful about bringing any other pets into the family. But there are many house cats who are very calm. They might be curious about a new rabbit coming into the home, and over time will be acclimated to the new animal. Rabbits also will likely need a transition period where they will be timid around a cat. But eventually the two will learn to live with each other, and they might even become friends.
It is more likely a cat and rabbit will get along if you get them both as young animals. Animals that grow up together are more likely to feel a bond with each other. They won’t see the other animal as a threat or an animal to hunt because they’ve been together all their lives. How to introduce rabbits and cats. You want to be very careful when you introduce a rabbit and a cat. DO NOT leave them unsupervised.
Introduce the rabbit and cat with a cage between them. When you first introduce the two pets, make sure you have some sort of barrier between them (such as a fence or cage). Give the rabbit a place to hide, such as a box or alcove, and make sure your cat has a place they can run if they get spooked by the rabbit. If either animal shows signs of fear or stress, then you should end the interaction and try again tomorrow. (a fearful rabbit will run and hide, or start thumping with their back legs). Supervise your rabbit and cat as they interact. After a few days (or possibly weeks) of giving them these short interactions, your pets might start to feel comfortable and curious around each other. They shouldn’t be acting scared or stressed when they see each other, and they aren’t trying to attack each other through the bars. At this point you can try giving them the chance to interact without a barrier or cage separating them. Supervise their interaction very closely and be ready to break them up at the smallest hint of danger. Even if your pets seem to be okay with each other right away, it’s best to continue to only allow them to interact when you can supervise them for at least a couple of months. After a few months your pets will likely start to get used to each other. You should still consider keeping them apart when you are not home or when you are asleep, but by now your pets are both part of the family.
Will a cat attack a rabbit? Cats are natural predators, so some cats will attack rabbits, but not all. This depends on the disposition of your cat, and also the size of your rabbit. Some cats are more territorial and more natural hunters than others. They will be more likely to chase after squirrels or other small animals outside. Or they might be the kind of cat who stalks birds from the window and tries to catch them. These cats probably are not the best match, since they may try to attack your pet rabbit also. There is also size to consider. Cats are generally not going to try to hunt animals that are as big as they are, and some rabbits are as big (or bigger) than cats. Pairing a large rabbit with a cat can greatly increase the chance of success at including both pets as part of the family.
Will a rabbit attack a cat? Surprisingly, it is also possible that the rabbit will be aggressive and attack the cat. Rabbits are very territorial animals. If they feel the cat is encroaching on their home territory, they might attack. Rabbits can also lash out and scratch or bite if they are afraid. If the rabbit feels cornered by the cat, even if the cat is not showing any aggressive behavior, the rabbit might attack. Usually a rabbit will try to run away before they attack though, so always supervise and make sure your rabbit has a way out of any interaction.
THE rabbit we know and love has evolved in response to important evolutionary pressures. The rabbit’s success is based on its ability to reproduce prolifically whenever favorable circumstances arise. Winter weather conditions and the accompanying lack of food suppress the female’s ovarian activity during the winter months, but for the rest of the year (January to October) rabbits will breed… well, like rabbits. This ability was highly valued by man, leading to rabbit domestication: the rabbit was recognized as an excellent source of food and its ability to breed prolifically ensured a ready supply. However, the rabbit’s qualities as a companion animal have earned it status as a much-loved family pet. However, as a household pet, the rabbit’s breeding talents can cause health and behavioral problems. This article will discuss the whys, when's and how's of neutering the pet rabbit and will seek to dispel a number of concerns and misunderstandings surrounding these procedures.
What is neutering? Neutering involves the removal of a rabbit’s reproductive organs. In the case of a female rabbit, the ovaries and uterus are removed. This procedure is commonly called a spay or 1 / 5 ovariohysterectomy. In the male rabbit, the testes are removed. This procedure is called a castration. Why neuter pet rabbits? The demand for rabbits as pets can never keep up with the rabbit’s ability to produce endless numbers of offspring. The prevention of unwanted pregnancies is, therefore, one of the most important reasons for ensuring rabbits are neutered. Many rabbits are inaccurately sexed prior to re-homing. It is, therefore, not uncommon for owners sold two apparently same-sex rabbits to find themselves with a male and a pregnant female a few months later. Where there is a will, there is a way – and rabbits will most definitely breed given the slightest opportunity. In view of this, neutering is strongly recommended. Health benefits In addition to the prevention of unwanted pregnancies, there are significant health and behavioral reasons why rabbit owners should seriously consider neutering their pets. Pet rabbits can expect to have a much longer life expectancy than farmed or wild rabbits and they may develop diseases of the genital tract. Surgical removal of the ovaries and uterus will greatly reduce (if not eliminate) the risk of uterine tumors, infections and other problems. Similarly, in the male rabbit, the removal of the testicles eliminates the risk of testicular cancer and infection. Behavior Rabbits demonstrate a number of sexually-driven behaviors including aggression, urine spraying, mounting and nesting. Both male and female rabbits can spray urine as a means of marking their territory. This is likely to prove undesirable in a house rabbit. The strategic deposition of small piles of feces may also be seen. This behavior can be expected to stop (or at least decrease) following neutering. The sexually active buck can be expected to have a strong desire to mate and may attempt to do so with a range of animate and inanimate objects (ranging from other rabbits to dogs, cats and slippers). This behavior is largely hormone dependent and will reduce or stop following castration. Nesting behavior can induce a female rabbit to chew household furniture and other objects. In addition, a pregnant or pseudo-pregnant doe may become aggressive as she seeks to defend her territory and/or nest. This behavior can also be reduced or eliminated following sterilization.
Is neutering unnatural? It is certainly true that neutering is an unnatural procedure as it prevents the rabbit from breeding and, thus, demonstrating its full repertoire of natural behavior. However, it should be remembered that the domesticated rabbit is not kept under natural circumstances and this forces us to think carefully about how, in an unnatural environment, we can optimize the rabbit’s welfare. The pet rabbit is likely to live a long and rewarding life when protected from predation, hunger and disease and, it can be argued, these benefits far outweigh any limitations we impose on pet rabbits. Therefore, as part of our duty of care to the rabbit, we need to prevent reproductive diseases and unwanted pregnancies. In addition, reduced aggression allows rabbits of the same sex to be kept together, minimizing bite wounds, while enhancing the rabbit’s ability to develop a close bond with its owner. It is for these reasons that this so-called “unnatural” procedure is to be recommended.
What age should a rabbit be neutered? The most commonly recommended age for neutering is at approximately five months of age, immediately following the onset of puberty, which may, however, vary between four and eight months of age. This recommendation is a practical one because, at this age, surgery is least complicated and risky. Pre-pubescent rabbits have very small uterine horns that can be difficult to locate, while mature rabbits have more abdominal fat, which may also make the uterus difficult to find and remove. Male rabbits should only be considered to be sterile after a period of four to six weeks after castration. Therefore, they should not be introduced to an entire female in the month following their neutering. What if the rabbit lives alone? If the rabbit is male and does not have any undesirable behavioral characteristics, it may not need neutering. The incidence of testicular cancer in male rabbits is relatively rare and would not, in itself, warrant an absolute recommendation that single male rabbits be automatically castrated. For female rabbits, the health benefits can be significant. The incidence of reproductive disease in certain breeds of rabbit can exceed 50 per cent when they are allowed to reach old age, although in other breed lines it may be considerably lower. While care should be exercised in advising rabbit owners about the reasons for neutering, the routine neutering of female rabbits is widely recommended.
Is the procedure risky? There was a time when many vets would attribute a high anesthetic risk to the rabbit and discourage routine surgical procedures. Advances in rabbit medicine and anesthesia have considerably reduced this risk and there are increasing numbers of vets around the country with considerable experience in rabbit medicine and surgery. What are the side effects?
• Postoperative anorexia and ileus – failure to provide adequate pain relief and postoperative care can result in loss of appetite and suppression of the intestinal tract’s normal motility. Rabbits should ideally be eating and passing feces before going home.
• Wound complications – rabbits often interfere with their surgical wounds. The use of internal sutures and or surgical glue is therefore recommended. Inguinal herniation may very rarely be seen following castration and should immediately be brought to the attention of the vet.
• Weight gain – there is a possibility that a neutered rabbit may become predisposed to weight gain. Regular monitoring of a rabbit’s weight will identify any such changes and will allow the diet to be adjusted accordingly. Conclusions Neutering of male and female pet rabbits is to be recommended to all rabbit owners in order to prevent unwanted pregnancies and a range of health and behavioral problems.
Safe Food for Rabbits-
This is not a guide to the nutritional value of these foods and as always when starting rabbits on a natural feeding program
go slow so the gut flora can adapt to the new feeds you are feeding your rabbits.
RABBIT SAFE FRUIT-
- (Feed very, very sparingly… Super sugary! Up to 2 tbsp daily) :
- Apple (NO core or anything containing seeds, unless all seeds removed)
- Apricots (NO PITS)
- Banana (fruit and peel)
- Blackberry (stem, leaf and fruit)
- Blueberries
- Carambola
- Cherry (NO PITS)
- Cranberry
- Currant (black and red)
- Cucumber
- Grapes (fruit, leaf and vine are edible)
- Huckleberry
- Kiwi Fruit
- Mango
- Nectarine
- Orange (NO PEEL- segments only)
- Melon (all melons)
- Papaya (NO SEEDS)
- Peach (NO PITS)
- Pear
- Pineapple
- Plum (NO PITS)
- Raspberries (twigs, and leaves – astringent)
- Rose hip
- Starfruit
- Strawberries (and leaves)
- Tomato (red fruit ONLY; no stems or leaves)
- Tangerine (NO PEEL – segments only)
- Watermelon
RABBIT SAFE VEGETABLES-
- Alfalfa Sprouts
- Artichoke Leaves
- Arugula
- Asparagus
- Baby Sweet Corns (like in stirfry)***
- Beet Greens
- Beetroot
- Bell Peppers (green, yellow, red, orange…)
- Bok Choy/Pak Choy
- Carrot Greens (tops)
- Carrot (limited amount, due to high sugar content)
- Celeriac
- Celery (cut into small pieces to limit choking on strings)
- Cucumber
- Chard
- Clover (WHITE only)
- Collard Greens (be cautious, may cause bladder sludge (high calcium)
- Dandelion Greens (no pesticides)
- Eggplant (purple fruit only; leaves toxic)
- Endive
- Escarole
- Grass (if cut from your own chemical/fertilizer/poison free back yard-I spread it out and dry it)
- Kale
- Lettuce (Dark Green/Red Leaf, Butter, Boston, Bibb, or Romaine – NO ICEBERG [no
- nutritional value, may cause diarrhea])
- Mustard Spinach
- Nappa/Chinese Cabbage
- Okra Leaves
- Pak Choy/Bok Choy
- Pumpkin
- Radicchio
- Radish tops (Limited amounts: can cause gas)
- Raspberry Leaves
- Rhubarb (RED STALKS ONLY – POISONOUS LEAF)
- Squash: Yellow, Butternut, Pumpkin, Zucchini
- Swiss Chard
- Turnip Greens
- Watercress
- Wheat Grass
- Zucchini
SAFE IN MODERATION
- Brussels Sprouts
- Cabbage
- Cauliflower
- Kale
- Mustard Greens
- Spinach
- SAFE FOODS:
- Agrimony
- Alfalfa
- Apple
- Avens
- Balm
- Banana
- Barley
- Basil
- Beetroot
- Blackberry
- Borage
- Broccoli
- Buckwheat
- Burnet
- Camomile
- Caraway
- Carrot
- Celery
- Celeriac
- Chervil
- Chicory
- Chickweed
- Chinese leaf
- Cleavers
- Clover, WHITE
- Coltsfoot
- Comfrey-I feed fresh young leaves and also dry for winter tonic, but most breeders say they feed it slightly wilted
- Coriander
- Corn marigold
- Corn spurrey
- Cow parsnip
- Crosswort
- Cucumber
- Dandelion
- Dead-Nettles
- Dill
- Dock BEFORE FLOWERING
- Endive
- Fat hen
- Fennel
- Goosefoot
- Goosegrass
- Goutweed BEFORE FLOWERING
- Ground elder BEFORE FLOWERING
- Hawkbit
- Hawkweed
- Heather
- Hedge parsley
- Horseradish
- Jerusalem artichoke
- Knapweed
- Knotgrass
- Kohlrabi
- Lavender
- Lovage
- Mallow
- Marjoram
- Mayweed
- Maywort
- Meadowsweet
- Melon
- Milk thistle
- Mugwort
- Nipplewort
- Oats
- Orache
- Oxeye daisy
- Parsley
- Parsnip
- Peas
- Pear
- Peppermint
- Pigweed
- Plantain
- Pumpkin
- Purslane
- Radish GREENS
- Raspberry
- Sage
- Savory
- Sanfoin
- Shepherd’s purse
- Silverweed
- Sow thistle
- Soya
- Strawberry
- Swiss Chard
- Tare
- Tomatoes(fruit only leaves and stocks toxic!)
- Trefoil
- Vetch
- Vine leaves
- Watercress
- Watermelon
- Wheat
- Yarrow
Our rabbits get ACV in their water in 3 month cycles. 3 months on, 3 months off, 3 months on, etc. There is nothing harmful in ACV so it will not hurt the rabbits. Some older rabbit books reference ACV as a additive to their daily water giving it continuously to the complete herd. I plan on to keep putting ACV in my rabbits water, as I have seen the results in my herd! Add 1 to 2 tablespoons to a gallon of water. Start with one and work up to two, sometimes I do not even measure it just add a splash in a gallon jug and good to go.
So you should consider ACV as a daily preventive health maintenance program or just a monthly health tonic it is up to you, just remember to keep a jug handy were you fill your bottles and crocks so it is handy. You will see the greatest effect from this treatment about 4 weeks after beginning the ACV. Give it time and you will see the improved look and health in your rabbits.
I use the organic ACV with the mother in it so it is alive and still has all the valuable probiotics. Even regular ACV has great benefits just make sure it is apple cider vinegar and not apple colored/flavored distilled white vinegar.
Apple Cider Vinegar keeps the rabbits immune system up also preventing urinary tract problems like infections and bladder sludge (this is caused from excess calcium) and promotes a less potent urine therefore reducing the smell. ACV keeps the rabbits body’s ph regulated, clearing up skin conditions and infections. This adjustment in ph will also help with weepy eyes and other eyes issues. ACV is known for keeping the rabbits fur softer and shinier.
Many rabbit breeders feel that by adding ACV to your rabbits water this will result in healthier rabbits by increasing the nutrient absorption capabilities of the G.I. tract as well as helping with the whole digestive process. Extensive historical use in veterinary studies indicate that ACV added to feed or water can cure a mastitis infection and reduce the transmission rates of the bacteria in most livestock.
ACV is also said to boost fertility rates and produce more female kits in a litter, also said to make the does more willing to breed. ACV makes rabbits unattractive to fleas and mites by making the rabbit smell off. Making it a great repellent and health tonic. You can also mix a few drops of ACV and a little mineral oil to treat for ear mites by dropping 4 or 5 drops in each ear holding the ear flap closed for a minute or
two. then gently rubbing the base of the ear.
It can also be used as a cleaner for cages and crocks as well as keeping the green algae from growing in water bottles in the summer.
If you bring your rabbit to a show or transporting them, the water will taste the same as the water from home.
SAFE TREE AND SHRUB LEAVES-Should always feed only fresh young leaves:
- Acacia
- Apple
- Beech
- Birch
- Blackberry
- Cherry
- Hazel
- Horse Chestnut
- Lime
- Mountain Ash
- Mulberry
- Pear
- Poplar (not black)
- Raspberry
- Strawberry
- SAFE TWIGS-
- Apple
- Birch
- Blackberry
- Fir
- Hazel
- Hawthorn
- Maple
- Pear
- Raspberry
- Spruce
- Willow
- SAFE FLOWERS-
- Aster
- Daisy
- Geranium
- Geum
- Helenium
- Hollyhock
- Honesty
- Marguerite
- Marigold
- Michaelmas daisy
- Nasturtium
- Rose
- Stock
- Sunflower
SAFE HERBS-
- Basil: Lemon, Globe, Thai, Mammoth, Sweet, Genevieve
- Borage
- Chamomile
- Caraway
- Clover
- Chervil
- Comfrey
- Coriander/Cilantro
- Dill: Fern leaf, Mammoth
- Fennel
- Garden Cress
- Groundsel
- Lavender (Not for pregnant does; can cause fetal expulsion)
- Lemon Balm
- Lovage
- Marjoram
- Mint: Pineapple sage, pineapple mint, apple mint, orange mint, peppermint, lemon thyme, cinnamon basil, lime basil, lemon basil, sweet basil, licorice basil, “licorice mint” (anise hyssop), spearmint, peppermint, chocolate mint, and basil mint.
- Oregano
- Peppermint
- Parsley: Curly and Flat-Leaf
- Rosemary
- Sage: Pineapple is quite good
- Salad Burnet / Small Burnet
- Summer Savory
- Tarragon
- Thyme